``The bike can go where other vehicles cannot. It's the best way to see countries and observe different cultures,'' says David. The journey has mapped England, Switzerland, Austria, Hungary, the ice caves in Romania and Bulgaria, Iran, Turkey and Pakistan.

In Turkey, recalls David, ``The contrast with other countries was striking. Mosques appear in the skyline as you zoom past at 100 km per hour. The Turkish fend for themselves, and don't look up to the government for any support,'' says David.

And Iran was another experience altogether. ``When we rode into the country at 2 am, hotel authorities asked for a marriage certificate,'' laughs Jane.

``Then the guide came to our rescue and arranged for a one-night certificate,''adds David. The couple got engaged in Iran. ``Iranians are the kindest and friendliest lot. Sure I had to wear a chaddor and scarf which was a bit unnerving. It is truly depressing to see the women clothed from head to toe in black,'' says Jane. She was particularly taken up by Estafahan, a city in the middle of Iran with polo fields, tea shops and separate mosques for ladies. ``Women don't ever ride a bike in these parts, and we had to duck once and twice to avoid attention.'' One thing, though, pleased the accountant in David: ``Petrol was hardly a rupee a litre.''

Crossing Iran to Pakistan was like switching from a black and white TV to a colour set. ``The women were truly stunning in their colourful attire, and it was a pleasure to leave behind the religious police and head scarf,'' says Jane.

``Temperatures soaring to 48 degrees celsius and thousands of kilometres of sand and narrow streets, underground reservoirs on that stretch of road is grime, dirt and pure pleasure personified,'' say the twoabout crossing over to Pakistan. ``The six litre drinking water pipe around the bike came in handy on this stretch,'' says Jane.

Camping in the Hindukush, beer at the Australian embassy after a stretch of `dry period' in Iran and the curiosity of Indians is what the couple say they will remember the most. They have spent 2,500 pounds so far, minus the shopping, of course. And on the journey, David has fallen off his bike 17 times, while Jane only 14. The couple, in fact, taken a bet as to who slip off the bike the least number of times. ``It's still a long way to go, and at the end of the journey I'll win the bet,'' claims Jane.

Jane, with an ankle fracture, also has a word of caution for riders: To buy a helmet and riding gear before venturing on a bike.