In a free association game, Goa would immediately be linked with sand, sea and sin. A city-state where there are always as many tourists as trees, it suffers from a bad case of typecasting. But according to a new site on the Internet, there is much more to Goa than cheap booze on the beach. Its characteristic architecture, for instance.The site, which has been treated like a photo-exhibition (with photographs by Ashok Koshy), puts its case across convincing through attractive pictures of buildings which contain traces of many styles. Goan architecture is as eclectic as its floating population on any given day. But what makes it worth seeing, and preserving -- the main aim behind the site -- is that it is not afflicted with the Punjabi Baroque syndrome.
A strong residual Konkani style from pre-Portuguese times, specially in religious buildings, is combined with Classical Italian features, notable in facades and plinths. Romanticism, which crept in the 19th century when Neo-Gothic became the rage, led toornate arches and doorways -- and all of that got painted in traditional vegetables dyes -- mainly red oxide, yellow, ochre and indigo. The final effect is uncontrived as rural folk in their clear minded simplicity only picked up features which would work in their surroundings.
The Goan eclectic style, which is now a separate category of architecture altogether, also combines Mannerist and Roccoco features "mixed with Maratha and Mughal in a folksy manner".
Goan architect Gerard da Cunha, the main person behind the site, says that one of the aims was to find the true nature of Goa's architecture. "The big question was whether the Goan house was a `Portuguese house' as it is often termed or not. We have found that it is a fusion between the East and the West. And its further development has been from within," says he.
But now, the monolith of modernism with all its cracks and faults has started creeping into this sleepy state. Insensitive architecture, with no effort to adapt buildings to theenvironment, is destroying the countryside. Well-known for his ingenious, eco-friendly designs, Da Cunha finds the rape of his state's landscape difficult to stomach. "Though Goan architecture had taken a more innovative direction from other towns in India, with the advent of large-scale property development in the form of plots and buildings, there is little to distinguish it, now," he says.
Another reason why traditional architecture is floundering is the transition from a joint family system to a nuclear one. "As family size decreases, the division of houses becomes difficult. A further complication, and a cause of neglect, has been the share to be spent on the repairs by the constituents, some of whom are absent," says Da Cunha. So an easy way out has been to give over the house to a property developer who replaces it with a faceless block of flats. Da Cunha and his team have come up with a multi-pronged strategy to preserve Goan architecture.
Besides the internet site, which unfortunately is not verywell-designed, they also plan to tour India and three cities in Portugal with the photo-exhibition next year. And a glossy book, Houses of Goa which is a study of 150 houses, penned by Heta Pandit and Annabel Mascarenhas, has also been published.
Though Da Cunha has taken up a difficult task, it is a battle worth fighting. The Goan style might not survive till the next century, so next time you go to Goa, don't put on those sun-glasses till you reach the beach. Otherwise you will miss something which might soon be lost forever.
The website is http://goenkar.com/goan-houses.
The book Houses of Goa is priced at Rs 1,450 but is available on a special limited offer for Rs 875.
For further details, e-mail: archauto@bom2.vsnl.net.in or write to Architecture Autonomous, House No 64, Near Union Bank, Sangolda Bardez, Goa.
Copyright © 1998 Indian Express Newspapers (Bombay) Ltd.