These are the men of the Border Security Force (BSF) -- guarding the Atari-Wagah border -- during the Retreat ceremony. The same drill simultaneously takes place on the other side of the Pakistan gate. The only difference is that the BSF men in their ceremonial uniform are replaced by the Pakistan Rangers in their Pathan suits, across the border. Though the expression on the Rangers' faces is indeterminable from this side, it is not difficult to imagine the fury, with snarling sounds emanating from that side.

Then one BSF personnel marches towards the freshly painted Indian gate -- with legs raised high and unbent at the knees -- and throws it open with great force. As the gate hits against a boulder, one cannot but thinkthat its hinges must be really strong. The Pakistan gate too is thrown open. The BSF personnel and the Ranger march towards each other, covering the three meters distance between the two gates and then stop -- facing each other.

Eyeball-to-eyeball. Their boots almost touching. Unsmiling and unblinking. The tension is palpable. Then suddenly they shake hands but the expression remains unchanged.

Then the 15-minute-long Retreat ceremony -- which starts at 5.30 pm everyday -- continues. Then the bugle sounds `The Last Post'. The Indian Tricolour is lowered and so is the Pakistan flag. The flags cross each other briefly, covering the setting sun. The BSF personnel then fold the flag and carry it inside. Peace is declared. The honour of the country has been successfully guarded for another day. Till the Reveille ceremony the next morning when the flags will again be hoisted and the two will be enemies again.

This was the Retreat ceremony at the Atari-Wagah border which I witnessed along with cheeringhundreds of others three days before the historic crossing over of the Radcliffe Line by Atal Behari Vajpayee aboard the now famous bus to Lahore. The palpable tension witnessed during the Retreat ceremony eased soon after. The patriotic slogan shouting crowds -- Pakistan Zindabad on that side, Bharat Mata ki Jai on this side -- rushed towards the respective gates to get a good look at the ``enemy.''

But all that they could see were men, women and children just like them. They didn't look like ``the enemy.'' Some were probably even disappointed. Quite a few tried to talk to the people on the other side, and were surprised they were understood and acknowledged. Then the BSF personnel took over and asked the people not to crowd the gate. An old woman -- tears flowing freely -- could not understand the barrier. ``We are one. I was born in Jhelum. How can these two gates keep us apart?'' she said in Punjabi.

Her daughter said that now 75-year-old Shiela Devi's burning desire was to visit the Padri village inJhelum where she was born. If she had the freedom, she would have loved to just cross the border for a chance to visit her birthplace. I am sure there were similar scenes on the other side.

They were only gates -- like the ones which we have in our houses. The only difference was that the Indian gate was brightly painted in saffron, white and green with the golden Ashok's symbol shining at the centre. And that the Pakistan gate was painted in their national colours with the crescent and the star. Both the sides were making preparations for the PM's visit.

Sprucing up their respective areas. The Indian gate was still wet with the paint. The Pakistanis were giving finishing touches to theirs. The orders being barked were in the same language on both the sides. The gates were firmly shut. To be opened briefly for the PM's bus to pass. Only to be closed again.