Fencing, denial of road traffic for Indian and Pakistani nationals and constant vigil by security agencies had implied that the residents of border villages were suspect. Now, they say, Vajpayee has removed that blot.

"Hopefully, the bus visit would be carried to its logical conclusion and we will be able to establish direct trade links and give a boost to the local economy," says Surinder Singh, a resident of Attari and chairman of the local board of the Shiromani Gurdwara Parbandhak Committee (SGPC). Adds another resident, Rajinder Singh: "They are very backward in agriculture. Allow us free trade and our tractors will run on their fields".

Boost in trade and better tourist inflow is important for border villages. Nearly 1,400 persons work as coolies at Attari and Wagah, and the lack of tourist traffic means they find little work. They work in shifts, and those on the job one day are asked to take an off the other day. Their pattern of work is also interesting. Whenever a foreigner crosses over, a Pakistani coolie brings the baggage and leaves it at the check-post, from where an Indian coolie takes over.

Attari -- just two kilometres away from Wagah and the last Indian post -- celebrated the day Prime Minister Vajpayee drove down to Wagah. "The entire market was closed and most residents lined the route to witness the historic visit," says Surinder.

While the villagers are ecstatic, the situation is regarded as "strange" by Charlotte Marie, a Swedish journalist who returned to India after a fortnight in Pakistan a day after Vajpayee's visit. While she was able to cross the border unhindered, residents of both countries are not allowed that luxury. Right after Charlotte had crossed, a Land Rover with two Northampton travellers also crossed over to India. Their passage was smooth and the immigration formalities took a few minutes. Residents now feel that the visit would smoothen the flow of traffic.

Attari residents also complain of their village being ignored by successive governments. Their claim of history -- the majestic fort of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, and its famous tunnels which led to the samadhi of Pir Gulabh Shah and the bathing ghats of the queens -- is now in ruins. The fort was used by the Army for mounting wireless sets during the war.

"Nobody cares for the fort and even the regular function at the samadhi of the famous general of the Maharaja's army, Sham Singh Attari, is now a pale shadow of its formal self," complains Gurinder Singh of Attari village. Hopefully, Vajpayee's visit would make a difference; trade might pick up and the Attari fort may become a tourist attraction.