To the 100-plus people who visit this extremely popular dhaba at chowpatty (near the General Post Office, Camp) everyday, Dev Uncle means a lot more than just Mr. Mehta. To them, he is the essence of asli Punjabi food. Fresh, wholesome sarson da saag with makki di roti, served with generous dollops of hospitality and an all-pervading affection, is something one cannot get easily from a restaurant.

Perhaps that is the reason behind his popularity. Says Mehta, ``Anyone who eats at my place once will always return again.'' Like the people who used to frequent his dhaba when it first went into operation 20 years ago. ``They come here even now. Only this time, it is with their children and grandchildren.''

After being in the business for 20 years, Mehta has developed an uncanny knack of guessing the tastes of the people visiting his dhaba. ``To me, it's like face-reading. Even before a person places an order, I can figure out his likes and dislikes. For instance, a Mumbaite will go in for the desi taste, without too much cream and oil. To them, I serve methi ki bhaji and karela fry with a dal makhani.

``Maharashtrians like chatpata stuff and for the Jains, I make Punjabi dishes without onions, ginger and garlic.'' His love for food led him to devise certain combinations. ``Stuffed parathas taste best with curds and dal makhani. Paneer gunghroo with dal fry and mixed vegetables.'' So choosing a menu at Dev Uncle's Kitchen is never a problem, the man knows it all.

If his clients have been coming back to him for the past 20 years, it is only because of the effort he puts in to make his food so delicious. Says he, ``I start my day by purchasing the vegetables. Then I personally clean the leafy vegetables and cut the others. After this, an hour and a half is spent cleaning the wheat, bajri and makki.''

One of the reasons why Mehta's food turns out like mom's is because he believes that everything should be fresh. So the flours used for the parathas and makki di roti are freshly ground every day. Says he, ``I learnt all that I know from my mother. And she always told me that fresh food tastes the best. Not only do I love good food, but cooking is also a hobby with me. So I keep trying out new dishes and changing the menu so that my regular customers do not get bored.''

Customers. That's the key word for this man. ``They are like family to me. When they eat my food and tell me `maaza aa gaya,' the joy I experience is inexplicable. Business the whole world does, but love very few people get from their clients. That is what keeps me going - the love and satisfaction of my clients''.