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Tuesday, August 10, 1999

Threads of creativity

Mita Banerjee  
Shaila Choubal's reactions cannot be termed mere embroidery. Each piece, be it a small doily or a large bedspread, is an exquisite work of art. The colour combinations are sometimes vibrant sometimes muted, with dainty shades of silk threads merging seemingly naturally into each other just the way Mother Nature intended them. Each stitch, whether the simple stem, or the delicate bullion or the perfectly symmetrical herringbone, is neat and smooth. No wonder then that Shaila effortlessly swept away all opposition in any competitive exhibition that she participated and carried away every prize in each category.

Shaila's love story with fabric and thread began way back in St. Anthony's School, Mumbai, when she was just a young student. ``The French sisters taught me the basics and first kindled my interest in this form of art. Later, I joined Indutai Amberdkar's classes at Sion in 1971. That was just a few months before my daughter Renuka was born. I continued the classes for three more years. Indutai taught me all the intricacies of embroidery. She was a very unusual type of teacher who insisted on the best effort and would not compromise in quality at all. If we made the tiniest mistake, she would just snip it off with her scissors.

When Shaila lost her husband a few later, it was embroidery that she turned to, for solace. The smooth folds of fabric and the absorption with the correct stitches and colours, helped her pass her time fruitfully. She also began to take classes of her own, following the same exacting methods of her guru, Indutai. Amongst her students was Minatai Thackeray, who insisted that she take part in a competitive exhibition which was being sponsored by the Akhil Bhartiya Mahila Mandal at Matunga. Shaila swept away all the first prizes and was told by the organisers, ``If the rules permitted, we would have given the second and third prizes to you too.'' In fact, one of her entries won the prize for the `Best Machine Embroidery' and Shaila had to show them that she was not eligible for it as it was not done by the machine but by hand. The tiny satin stitches worked with a single strand were so perfect that they fooled even the judges.

Shaila also does crochet work as delicate as gossamer. She knits too, making lovely baby sets which are very affordable between Rs 150 to 250. But it is her threadwork that she concentrates most on and has the greatest variety. Her work includes cutwork of different types. ``There is the spider in which one works a cobweb sort of pattern with thread, there is the net design with dainty net placed under the cut portions, there is punchwork, and couching. In all sorts of cutwork you have to work with an extremely sharp and pointed pair of scissors, taking care to hold it flat, so that you don't end up cutting off the stitches,'' she explains.

She makes lovely patchwork too, painstakingly edged with fine closed buttonhole stitches. And then there are her varieties of satin stitch, some raised, some flat. They are smooth as silk - ``they have to be otherwise how can you call it satin stitch, '' she emphasises. What makes her work stand out even more is the wonderful combination of shades. ``You have to work in the same family of colours and for that you should use the colour chart provided by the thread companies,'' she says, displaying dozens of doilies, cushion covers, place mats and tablecloths.

Nearing about 60 now, Shaila finds it a little strenuous to continue taking orders for crochet or embroidery. She would now like to concentrate on teaching, but Viman Nagar where she stays is to far away to attract too many students. She is hoping to find a place in the Camp area where she can continue to spread this art form amongst those who are interested.

Copyright © 1999 Indian Express Newspapers (Bombay) Ltd.


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