The art of tie and dye

Aadal Arasi

The and dye is the English term to Bandhni, which is a process where patterns are dyed into cloth and it's so simple that everyone can try their hand at it. This is a craft where a piece of fabric is tied, folded, bound, knotted or sewed and then it is dipped in a dyebath. The colour penetrates the untied areas and a pattern appears on the areas which have been protected from the dye. To produce more complex patterns more than one colour can be used by retying and dyeing different areas.

The art does not end with tops or salwar kameezs alone. Once you master this art you can go ahead and dye dresses, blouses, skirts, trousers, ties, pillow cases and curtains.

The fabrics and equipment you will need are: Cold water dyes which dye natural fabrics like silk, cotton and linen in bright colours. These dyes are easy to use and are fast even in sunlight and after wash. These dyes are available in a wide range of shades and one tin of dye is required for 250 grams or three metres of fabric by weight (because the density of the weave determines the dye, that will be absorbed). Sometimes, it is difficult to procure fast cold water dyes, then it is better to go for hot water dyes, but then, the garment should be separately laundered even after. These dyes also come in a large range of colours and dye natural and some synthetic fabric. The density of the colour intended can be achieved by simmering, but the amount of dye needed and the manufacturer's instructions for hot dyeing should be followed to the last detail.

Fabrics: Cotton and silk are safe and easy fabrics for dyeing. Woollen fabrics can be dyed, but the manufacturer's special instructions for dyeing wool should always be followed. Generally cold dyes are a better choice than hot dyes.

Tip 1: Don't try to tie-dye Woollen sweaters as tying makes them go out of shape.

Tip 2: Shirts, linens, towels and anything which needs constant washing should be dyed with colour fast cold dyes.

Tip 3: Special finished fabrics should not be chosen for tie-dyeing.

Other Materials: Salt, soda (only for cold dyes), wooden spoon for stirring, rubber gloves, a container big enough to submerge the tied fabric, plastic or glass for cold water dye, a heat resistant container for hot water dye, thread, elastic rubber bands, cork, pebbles, string, jute strings, or anything else you may need to make patterns.

Hints: New fabric may have starch on it, so first boil it and then iron it smooth when it is dry.

Preferably dye the fabric and then stitch the garment to achieve a much more professional look.

Tie a sample piece and immerse it in the dyebath each time you try a new design to avoid wastage of fabric.

Remember, that the colour looks darker when the fabric is wet.

When two or more colours are used, they blend together to give out a new colour. For example:
Red + Blue = Mauve.
Blue + Yellow = Green.
Yellow + Red = Orange.
Too many colours form a muddy colour!
Now it's time to tie. There are countless ways of tying a bundle of fabric to produce a design.

a) Knotted squares: Pick up a point of fabric in the centre of the square. Knot the point and each corner of the fabric.
b) Marbling: Crumple up the fabric in the hand. Bind into a hard ball. Crumple in different places for each colour used.
c) Stripes: Pleat a piece of fabric and secure with clothes pegs.
d) Stripes with cells: Fold a piece of fabric in four, pleat it and then bend with string.
e) Small circle: Pick up a piece of fabric to form a closed umbrella shape and bind with thread at intervals.
f) Clump tying (1) Bind a cork into a piece of cloth and then bind with a jute string at a distance or equal intervals.
g) Clump tying (2) Tie a number of different sized stones into a piece of fabric.
h) Small circle: Pick up a piece of fabric and bind it cris-cross, all the way upto 3/4th the length of the fabric.
i) Double knots: Knot the fabric after gathering the whole fabric into a roll, along its length.
How to start: Tie the fabric as you wish. But remember to leave two inches of thread when you start binding and knot it with the thread when the binding is complete. This ensures that the tying does not unwind in the dyebath. Tips for a sharp pattern wet the fabric before dyeing it and for a softer outline put the item in the dyebath, quite dry.

Dissolve the dye in water as per the instructions on the dye-box. Always work the lightest colour first. For cold dyes, dissolve the dye in cups or one pint of warm water, stir well and pour it into the dye container. For each tin of dye, dissolve four tablespoons of salt and one tablespoon of common soda after all your preparations are done because soda is effective for only two hours after it is mixed with the dye. Now, all you have to do, is dip the fabric in the dye and open the fabric to reveal marvellous designs.

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