Last time Mani Ratnam's encounter with Kashmir was in the ether. In Roja, which dealt with the militancy in the Valley, he preferred to stay out of Kashmir, recreating the State elsewhere. The film because of its controversial topic had led to a lot of resentment in the Valley. It's a measure of the State's return to normalcy, perhaps as far as Bollywood is concerned, that the director changed his mind this time. And he is planning to return in a big way to shoot an entire film, say sources. Mani Ratnam himself remains tight-lippedthough.

``We have come here to get some colour, especially the fall colours,'' a crew member told The Indian Express. All that Mani Ratnam was willing to disclose was that the film did not deal with the Kashmir problem. ``He is a first-timer in Kashmir; let him overcome his anxiety with subsequent visits,'' said a senior official in the tourism department, arguing that there was still some fear of shooting films in the State.

Mani Ratnam was not the first to come after Kargil happened. Vidhu Vinod Chopra was here earlier. In the midst of a tourism boom, the outbreak of the Kargil war had led to cancellation of shooting by two major film companies, leaving the State Government wringing its hands over the investments made to attract film units and build their confidence. But now Mani Ratnam has brought the smiles back.

``It seems big Bollywood banners have finally taken up the challenge to return to their old favourite. Not only is it cheap to shoot in Kashmir when compared to similar locations inSwitzerland and other West European countries but they also love the State which makes them come back,'' says Nazir Bakshi, president, Travel Agents' Association of Kashmir. Bakhshi, who has hosted 750 big banner films in the State prior to the turmoil, recollects the summer of 1985 when 25 Bollywood units were shooting simultaneously on a single day.

The State had pulled itself out of the morass this year and Kargil had actually interrupted what was believed to be the best year for the tourism industry the backbone of this financially-crippled State. Within a span of three days, around 30,000 tourists fled the Valley, causing all-round despair.

But now with the return of Bollywood the mood is upbeat. ``True,'' says Commissioner-Secretary, Tourism, Parvez Dewan, ``we are happy now that they have started coming on their own and spending money as well. Film units arrive and the private sector takes care of them. We (State Government) only make sure we are extra courteous.''