The amazing route which leads to silken fabric

The amazing route which leads to silken fabric
EXPRESS NEWS SERVICE

It has always been your passion. The symbol of your status. It is the fabric full of life - the silk, which makes a person look `Bon Vivant'. Thanks to silkworms and sericulture. One such sericulture activity has been undertaken by the Silk Industry on the Khadi and Village Industry Board (KVIB) campus in Pune. The Industry is not only involved in sericulture, but also weaves the `tana-bana' of the silk fabric with vibrant colours.

The Industry was first under the KVIB, but shifted to the Textiles Department two years ago. It has its directorate office at Nagpur. On the decision to shift, S K Pawar, joint director, silk industry, says, ``The main aim was to ensure participation of the farmer to a greater extent and development of the silk industry. This has really helped as the Industry is getting genuine attention. The industry is really serving its purpose as both small and big farmers have benefitted from the sericulture activity and are earning around Rs 80,000 per month.''

``This is the ideal business for farmers as they have market guarantee with the government as the permanent buyer of silk cocoons, thus ensuring fixed monthly income.''

How does the government select the farmers and what facilities does it provide for sericulture? ``There are no hard and fast rules to take part in this activity except that the farmer should have at least half-an-acre,'' Pawar says, adding, ``We usually have a cluster approach within the radius of 5-6 km and around 25-50 farmers are covered. We provide them with mulberry plant cuttings, disease-free silkworm eggs and a technical assistant to guide them till the first crop is harvested.''

``The venture might not be profitable in the first year,'' he warns, stressing farmers should be patient. The farmer can grow a traditional crop along with the non-traditional mulberry crop.

Eight districts come under Pune region, having a cultivation area of around 200 acres with around 5000 farmers . ``The introduction of low-cost technology has enabled farmers to undertake sericulture activity with the funds they have, without scouting for loans. Baramati is doing very well comparatively.''

The industry has 1.5 acres on the KVIB campus where mulberry is cultivated. ``Here plant cultivation, silkworm rearing and various methods involved in silk fabric-making are demonstrated. We produce 60-120 metres of silk fabric per month. Every cocoon gives at least 500 metres of yarn. We also have a research and training centre where training is imparted to those interested in sericulture,'' says Pawar.

The research and training centre building has a museum exhibiting the life cycle of the silkworm. Cocoons used for different types of silk and hybrid cocoons are also exhibited. There are four types of silk - mulberry, tussar, muga and aeri. In Maharashtra, mulberry silk is mostly produced.

A cocoon is made in 24 hours by the worm. The cocoon used for tussar silk is amazing as the worm weaves the peduncle and hangs it to the tree branch to save itself from being carried away by birds. The peduncle and the cocoons are not easily separable.

Recently the concept of branch feeding was introduced, which enables the use of 100 per cent labour. Pawar says, ``Earlier the farmers had to pluck the leaves to feed the worms according to their size, which would result in the wastage of 75 percent labour. We have also introduced the Chinese method of mulberry cultivation, which ensures proper use of water and a better mulberry yield.''

The quality of the silk fabric made here is guaranteed. You can get a Paithan saree made for Rs 10,000 with 350 grams of silver, giving it an extra imperial touch. Thus, to know how the silkworms gives you the silken tuch, visit the campus.