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This is an archive article published on June 28, 2009

A leaf out of Bollywood

There are no Bollywood numbers playing in the background but there’s an entire range of flavours on the menu named after Madhuri Dixit.

There are no Bollywood numbers playing in the background but there’s an entire range of flavours on the menu named after Madhuri Dixit. The paans here are not just saada and meetha. The flavours include almond-honey,walnut,chilgoza,anjir,chocolate,butterscotch,custard apple,melon seed,blueberry,kiwi and even Madhuri honey. Laced with home-made gulkand,sweetened with honey,saffron,dry fruits,packed in bright-coloured sheets and served chilled,these do not taste like ordinary paan leaves.

No paan stains on its adjacent walls,the neat little shop tucked away in a corner opposite Madras Hotel in Connaught Place has photographs of celebrities sampling its paans. From Dr Rajendra Prasad to Dr APJ Abdul Kalam,Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru to Indira Gandhi,M F Husain to Vaijantimala Bali,the shop has many famous names on its list of clients. And the man serving paan at the counter,Durgesh Pandey,was a national-level hockey player—he played in the team till 1988.

Durgesh’s father Shiv Narayan Pandey who belonged to Ayodhya,set up this shop in 1943. The shop,S N Pandey & Sons,is today managed by Durgesh and his three brothers. Pandey senior,now 85,comes to the shop every night after 8 p.m. for a couple of hours. The shop is open till midnight and Durgesh’s brother Hanumant,claims that the star customers walk in only after the rest of the shops in Connaught Place have closed for the day.

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Hanumant was a national-level power lifter and besides managing the shop along with the rest of the family,he also coaches youngsters in power lifting. They also have another shop at North Avenue—close to the power corridors and their political clientele—that’s managed by Pandey’s eldest son. “The youngest brother has two hobbies: paan and horses. One can’t call it a stud farm,but he has a number of horses in our native place in Ayodhya,” says Hanumant.

Pandey senior,on the other hand,flaunts a Husain painting which the celebrated artist had gifted him. “Whenever M F Husain is in Delhi,he comes to our shop for his favourite paan,” says S N Pandey,recalling how

Dr Zakir Hussain had invited him for Holi Milan at the Rashtrapati Bhavan,and the time when Nehru bought paan from his shop as a gift for Liaquat Ali Khan,the first Prime Minister of Pakistan.

His paans were also served at yesteryear actor Vaijantimala’s wedding. The secret of his popularity among politicians and artistes,he says,lies in the fact that he doesn’t compromise on quality. “I stick to choona kam,kaththa zaada,and no gutkha. Also,I experiment with flavours and cater to the specific demands of my clients,” he says.

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