A river runs through it

We had reached Livingstone in early September,and that is the best time to enjoy the river,gentle in some places,rapid in others and if you’re in luck,it also allows you to witness animals up close.
The hippopotamus couple dunked themselves in the water,only to surface a few seconds later,eyes and ears peeping. The hippos feed at night and stay in the water during the day,soaking in the river like bloated tea bags. Nevson then took us to a wide opening in the river where two elephants were frolicking,while a third waited on the banks. The African elephant is far more majestic than its humble and deified Indian cousin: they’re larger in size and have really big ears. As we travelled along the many islands that dot the river,we encountered more elephant families. They splashed around,showed off their tusks and posed for photographs until they got tired and walked up to a bank.

Slinking off not far away on the bank was a young crocodile. Buoyed by the alcohol,I asked Nevson to take us closer. “They’re killed for handbags,” somebody on the boat muttered. The magnificent colours of the crocodile’s hide glinted in the sun. It was a burnt gold and rust with olive green towards its tail. I’d rather be eaten by a crocodile than buy a handbag. We also spotted the African fish eagle,an egret and other exotic birds with long,forgettable names but unforgettable plumage.

Back at the hotel for high tea,we were giddy,grateful and a tad more philosophical. We sat down on the front lawns and along came a herd of zebras,beautiful,awe-inspiring creatures.
We were put up at the Royal Livingstone,a property of the Sun International group of hotels. It is the only hotel property located on the banks of the Zambezi river. The hotel has been constructed in a way to hark back to a simpler time,but with modern-day facilities. There are sprawling green lawns and a glorious wooden sun deck located a few feet away from the river,making it a great spot to photograph animals.

You can follow a zebra around on the lawns or let it lead you to the open grounds on the other side of the hotel. If you are quiet enough,you may run into a shy,seven-month-old giraffe and her camera-friendly mother. You might also spot rare albino monkeys who look rather scary but are shy animals as well. The hotel has adopted these animals. Do not ever forget to carry your camera at all times because nowhere else in the world will you see animals amble around freely at a hotel property. We ended our glorious weekend in Livingstone with a journey on the Royal Livingstone Express,a magnificent luxury steam train that runs along 20 km of the historic Mulobezi railways line. It is advisable to starve the whole day so that you can stomach the eight-course European meal served during dinner on the train. But all the way,what you will hold close is the overwhelming experience of seeing animals in the wild and in their natural habitat. Even if you’re an atheist,there is something about Zambia that makes you believe in a master creator.

Getting there: Fly into Livingstone from the O R Tambo International Airport at Johannesburg,British Airways has a direct 90-minute flight. Ensure that your hotel booking includes a pick-up from the airport.
Best time to visit: Between May and August.
Accommodation: The Royal Livingstone,The Zambezi Sun. Email: intsales@ sunint.co.za for more details.
To do: Take your pick from a guided tour of the Victoria Falls and game viewing at the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park. Take a historical tour to the Livingstone Museum and the Railway Museum.
Another exciting way to discover Livingstone on land is with a biking tour. You can also try river rafting and river float safaris or you can choose abseiling at the beautiful Batoka Gorge.
Shopping: Zambian masks and other African masks and wood carvings of animals are available. Kubu Crafts sells authentic Zambian curios and they have a store at the Livingstone International Airport.