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This is an archive article published on January 3, 2010

A view from the top

Begumpur,located close to Mother’s International School on Aurobindo Marg,looks like just another urban village.

Bijay Mandal,a seat of power in the 14th century,holds a commanding view

Begumpur,located close to Mother’s International School on Aurobindo Marg,looks like just another urban village. But there was perhaps a time,way back in the 14th century,when the entire subcontinent was politically and administratively controlled from a building located right at the heart of this village. Bijay Mandal,as it is called,is in all probability the thousand-pillar palace of Muhammad bin Tughlaq that Moroccan traveller Ibn Battuta described in his writings.

Though thousand pillar or hazaar sutun as Battuta calls it,may seem an exaggeration,archaeological findings of treasures like precious stones,ivory,gold,pearls,red coral,porcelain and coins from the complex in the early 20th century does make it probable that this was indeed the palace of the mighty Tughlaqs.

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The building is sturdy and somewhat stern with octagonal pavilion and towers and is devoid of any ornamentation. Though essentially a Tughlaq palace,portions of the building are from an earlier period. While the main platform and the hypostyle hall was built in the 13th century by the Khilji rulers,the Tughlaqs added platforms,octagonal pavilion,columned hypostyle hall,twin towers and treasure pits. In the 15th and 16th century,the Lodi rulers used the complex and added a domed building and a pavilion to it.

Despite being a seat of power,Bijay Mandal,unlike the other citadels of Delhi,seems all but forgotten. But for architecture enthusiasts,this is perhaps the most complicated of Delhi’s heritage buildings. For,it is not easy to ascertain the actual purpose of each and every part of the complex. The eastern part of the upper platform has two barrel vaulted basement rooms and from the platform,one can see a single-storey hall with an octagonal tower. There are remains of verandahs,doorways leading to arcades and apartments. Stone columns support the roof and the lower pavilions have arched doorways.

One can only imagine the sultan squeezing his way up the staircase to have a view of the countryside. Today,of course,from the octagonal pavilion both Qutub Minar and the commercial complex of Nehru Place seem almost eye-level—it is like seeing the entire South Delhi under one skyline.

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