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This is an archive article published on February 12, 2010

Betel route: ‘Lanka’ unites Chandni Chowk,Lahore

Can Pakistanis come to India in search of ‘Lanka’? The answer is yes. Lanka is the favoured variety of paan — betel leaves — across the border.

Can Pakistanis come to India in search of ‘Lanka’? The answer is yes. Lanka is the favoured variety of paan — betel leaves — across the border. And every Wednesday and Sunday,Pakistani vendors come to the paan mandi at Naya Bans,Chandni Chowk to buy Lanka.

Yasmin Malik (53) who comes with her son Aamir (25) once every year from Multan to buy the Lanka paan,said: “We have a paan shop in Multan. This time I’m taking back 5 kgs.”

Tahir Abbas (25) who came to Naya Bans to buy paan for the first time with his friend Firasat Ali (30) said: “I am taking paan for four dealers in Pakistan. I am carrying 50 kgs,which they will sell at the paan mandi in Karachi. Paan chewers in Pakistan love this variety.”

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The leaves they buy from Delhi are sold in Pakistan between Rs 50 and Rs 500 a kg.

The Lanka is a variety of betel leaf grown in Kerala. “It is the best and the only type that reaches Pakistan from India,” said Manoj Kumar,a dealer. For every sale,they get a 10 per cent commission. The consignments are taken by train and people pay around Rs 17 per kg as tax at the border,he said.

The quality of betel leaves is best in winters. The new crop will be planted after Holi. “But in summers,the leaves are smaller,” said another dealer. “In summers,the leaves sell for Rs 10-20 per doli (180-200 leaves),in winters,the same doli costs Rs 40 to Rs 50.”

Even Indians travelling to Pakistan carry the Lanka paan with them. Raila Ansari who came with her husband Ghazan Far to buy paan,said: “My sister is getting married in Lahore. We are taking 10 kgs for the wedding.”

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Post 26/11,the paan export business has suffered. A dealer said: “After 26/11,Pakistanis do not get an Indian visa easily,so our business is not that good. But we hope things will improve in the coming days.”

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