Indeed, Ujjain isn’t only about its famed Mahakaleshwar Temple, one of the 12 Swayambhu jyotirlings (where, according to mythology, the lord voluntarily chooses to reside), in the country. Shiva is a common presence in most of Ujjain’s temples, irrespective of the resident deity, be it as a lingam, an image or that rare sculpted idol.

But the one that would shock purists is the alcohol-guzzling Kaal Bhairav on the town’s outskirts. A normal puja thali here is incomplete without a bottle of alcohol. The pundit empties half the bottle into the mouth of the Shiva idol, pours a quarter into his kamandal and returns the remaining quarter as prasad. The unique rituals can be sourced to the Kaal Bhairav’s original devotees, the Aghoris, Kapaliks and their Tantric ways of propitiation. No visit to Mahakaleshwar is considered fruitful unless complimented by a worship of the Kaal Bhairav. So you better take your own bottle of alcohol along, unless you want to buy the exorbitantly priced liquor available off the temple.

Not far from the Kaal Bhairav’s seat is the Bhairogarh village, home to the famous Bhairogarh prints. For an outsider they may look like another shade of Batik, but the signature Malwa prints have many a local tale to tell and style to preserve.
Medieval history finds an echo in the Persian architecture of the Kaliadeh Palace, surrounded by the Shipra and other man-made tanks with inscriptions recording the visits of emperor Akbar (who made Ujjain the capital of Malwa) and the 17th century Jantar Mantar built by Raja Jai Singh. Part of his five famous observatories in Delhi, Jaipur, Banaras and Mathura, this one still works and is even used for weather forecasts. Do avail the services of an official guide and you will return back with your scientific temper reasonably enhanced on Ujjain’s status as India’s Greenwich from the 4th century BC.

But not every thing from the past is forever and even this ancient city too is changing. Our favourite mode of transport till now, the tempo is also on the verge of extinction having already made way for sleeker, environment friendly options in the bigger cities of Madhya Pradesh like Indore and Bhopal. “They are now just limited to Ujjain and Ratlam (in neighbouring Rajasthan), though here too they will be phased out by the end of 2008,” informs Singh. “So click enough pictures to keep this ride for keeps,” he laughs, as he drops us back at one of the many sweet shops at the city centre. We gorge on platefuls of rabri and gazaks which I bet they don’t make any better anywhere. No wonder, so many gods have opted for Ujjain as their earthly abode.