But not every thing from the past is forever and even this ancient city too is changing. Our favourite mode of transport till now, the tempo is also on the verge of extinction having already made way for sleeker, environment friendly options in the bigger cities of Madhya Pradesh like Indore and Bhopal. “They are now just limited to Ujjain and Ratlam (in neighbouring Rajasthan), though here too they will be phased out by the end of 2008,” informs Singh. “So click enough pictures to keep this ride for keeps,” he laughs, as he drops us back at one of the many sweet shops at the city centre. We gorge on platefuls of rabri and gazaks which I bet they don’t make any better anywhere. No wonder, so many gods have opted for Ujjain as their earthly abode.