For Sushi’s Sake

Bandra's new eatery, Kofuku, serves near-authentic Japanese food in a comfortable setting

The news of Japanese restaurant Kofuku opening in Bandra earlier this month was met with a wave of electric excitement. That it also served a broader range of Japanese fare — miso soup, tempura prawns and Kobe steak — in addition to sushi, stirred things up further. Despite the buzz the place had created before its opening, diners who visited the restaurant soon after were stunned by the decor. A plastic board at the door with the restaurant's name printed on it and a Hello Kitty scroll hanging on the doorknob aren't quite the welcome signs you are looking for. At Kofuku, the setting is simplistic, with the main focus on food.

The variety in food is extensive. As with any place offering sushi, one can't help but start with that. The highlights here are the saba (mackerel) maki, tuna sashimi and octopus nigiri. A platter with 15 assorted pieces is the best choice for fans of sushi. The maki, a little too loosely packed with rice that's almost translucent, could be better. As could the nigiri which should have been cold, but arrived at room temperature.

Among the non-vegetarian appetisers, the perfectly cooked tempura prawns overpowered by wasabi mayo can easily be avoided. The softshell crab tempura or the Okonomi yaki (Japanese pancakes) are better options. For vegetarians, the mixed vegetable tempura or the Agedashi (delicately fried silken) tofu make for interesting dishes. Among the mains, one can have chicken teriyaki if they're looking for familiarity, or the orange and soya glazed chicken thighs if they're in the mood to try something new. The Kobe beef is only served as a carpaccio, so one may steer towards signature mains such as the grilled Norwegian salmon or the black cod in miso. The drinks menu — sake particularly — still needs some work as most mentioned on the menu are not available. The sushi may need to be prepared under supervision, but it's the variety here that's a winner.

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