"Haute couture is the speedboat that pulls the whole fashion world," said French actress Josiane Balasko, sitting a few seats away from model and designer Ines de la Fressange.

Look-alikes of Louise Brooks, Lauren Bacall and World War Two French actress Micheline Presle strutted down the stage in broad-shouldered black suits and aviator-style raincoats and dresses adorned with furs.

Gaultier, who designs women's wear for luxury group Hermes, used the same 1930s soft leather caps he showed this spring with his collection for Hermes, which in turn owns 45 percent of Jean-Paul Gaultier.

Gaultier remained faithful to his own classics such as sailor-style trousers combined with a striped top and loosely fitting overalls, this time in crocodile skin or gold lame, with fox pelts dangling over the shoulders.

"There will always be a clientele looking for a one-of-its-kind piece," said Suzanne Saperstein from Los Angeles, a major buyer of French couture.