Deus reminisces “Goawillbethe Spainoftheeast inthreeyears.Its atmospherebeats PhuketandBali handsdown” about the Goa of old when hoteliers would play the guitar while guests danced. He has plans to set up a tradi-tional Goan village where tourists can experience local culture: “I want to serve original pork vindaloo in a vil-lage surrounded by paddy fields.” Goa’s cultural dilution is on many minds. While most Goans are selling out and enjoying unexpected wealth, thanks to family property, they have mixed feelings about outsiders coming in, buying their land and doing busi-ness.

Politician Rajan Ghate has started the Goa Bachao Manch and is protest-ing against Britishers and Russians buy-ing land in Goa. He’s found supporters. “The Goans will become like the Abo-rigines in Australia,” agrees D Deus.

Monteiro disagrees and points out how so many Indians have homes in London and Dubai: “The real threat is from the Indian businessman who wants to tear down a 100-year-old Portuguese house and build a hotel.”

While most Goans grudgingly ad-mit that Mallya’s interest in the state has been good for Goa, they sneer at his “air-conditioned garden” and overt display of wealth. The north Indians aren’t winning any popularity contests either. Aggressive and sharp, they ap-ply city standards to their businesses here and end up offending locals who are used to an easier pace of life. Fash-ion designer Malini Ramani has run a boutique here since 2002. She’s also started a nightclub called Congo and this winter she’s experimenting with a health bar called Juicy Planet. Ramani says the Goans are a lovely cultured lot but it takes time for outsiders to click here: “You must always be respectful and remember you’re the newcomer.”

... contd.