Get a taste of the Chettiar legacy in Karaikudi village where sprawling mansions hold tales of yore
The drive from Madurai airport to Karaikudi village is a rickety one. But with emerald green fields and a stray thundershower that stirs up the fecund smell of red earth, you hardly notice the rough ride that leads to the village of Karaikudi in the Sivagangai district of Tamil Nadu. Why you have packed your bag and headed to this Chettiar village has as much to do with its history as with its present.

Back in the 19th and 20th centuries, finding their homeland barren, the enterprising Chettiars of south India migrated to Burma, Malaysia, Singapore, Sri Lanka (then Ceylon) and other Southeast Asian countries to spread their business. And wherever they went, the merchant community took along with them an entourage of cooks specialised in the distinctive cuisine of the region, spreading the fame of Chettinad cuisine the world over. What they shipped home — the logs of timber, artifacts and antiques from the world over found a place in their exquisite naatukottais or country forts.

Any Chettiar village is dotted with grand houses, reminiscent of an era of extravagant living, grand dining and much artistic patronage. Today, the mansions are empty because the Chettiars have ventured out again, entrusting their homes to a caretaker and a crew of faithful servants. This is where the Union Tourism Ministry in collaboration with the UNDP steps in and with the co-operation of the hospitable Chettiars the gates of these lovely mansions are open again, this time for tourists.

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