Present since India was still under the British,these are some of the citys oldest food joints,which today have become an important part of its heritage
Pune is a historical and cultural city and it has much to offer to its denizens. Constantly bustling with energy and traffic,fast food joints and multi cuisine restaurants now crowd its skyline. However in the midst of the fast developing food industry lies the untouched world of food joints and cafes of yester years. They are a part of Pune’s culture,it’s essence,it’s heritage. Here’s a look at five of the city’s food heritage sites that still serves its customers everyday with the same warmth and love.
Goodluck Cafe
Situated at the junction of Bhandarkar and FC Road,Cafe Goodluck is a landmark point in the area. With the old world charm perfectly preserved,the cafe has been home to many loyal customers,across the ages. The cafe is abuzz with energy as the waiters give orders animatedly and customers wait in line. Set up in British India in 1935,Ghasem Yakhshi is the third generation of this family-owned restaurant,under whom the cafe maintains its busy business. Originally an Iranian restaurant,the rusted mirrors that cover the walls are straight from Belgium and the hard wooden furniture made its way from Italy. “With customers coming from all strata of life,we prefer keeping the decor as it is and even the prices are not that high,” says Yakhshi. Abbasali Khajehnoori,who sits at the counter,has been working since the past 40 years. As he hands change to the customers,he says with a toothy smile,”Mera dil lag gaya yahaan pe.”
Marz O Rin
A quiet evening with your loved one,sipping on juice and munching a brown bread sandwich,in a balcony over 100 years old overlooking the busy street on MG Road. Marz-O-Rin,a name associated with good food and a pleasing ambience. Founded by Sheriar J Sheriyarji in 1965,Marz-O-Rin,had started with only four items on its menu. Now it has more than 150! The aged interiors haven’t been changed,but the first floor was acquired in 2001. Other than paint and polish,no major renovations have been made. The wooden decor,stained glass and the renowned balcony brings the old era appeal to the present. “We have maintained its look because our customers like the ambience as it is. We wouldn’t want to change it,” says Vijaya Sheriyarji,who manages the restaurant now. Marz-O-Rin is indeed a favourite haunt for shoppers who like to rest their feet and indulge their hunger.
Appa Canteen
Hidden among the bushes near Deccan Gymkhana,you are likely to miss Appa canteen if you dont’ keep an eye out for it. Its moss covered walls are witness to its history as the canteen passed from father to son. Ramchendra Nagesh Bhat set it up in 1942. Now the counter is managed by Srikant while his brother,Shashikant handles the outside purchases. A small broken down place,guests sit on wooden benches as they bend over their plate of sabudana vada and idli sambar. The canteen opens it’s doors for its customers sharp at 8am,where many after a quick game in the Gymkhana munch on their breakfast here. Freshly prepared goodies,the idli maker is seen constantly swirling as the cooks tend to the snacks. “Public says Appa’s food is tasty as its ambience is beautiful,” says Srikant with a sparkle in his eyes.
Vaidya Uphar Griha
Seated in the heart of the city,Vaidya Uphar Griha celebrated its centenary year. Amidst the crowded streets that belong to the city’s gold jewellers and bronze traders,lies Vaidya Uphar Griha,known for its legendary misal pav. After all ‘misal hai poorna anna’,as is written on its name plate. The yellowed peeling walls peek in between the large frames of the Hindu deities,and the decor shouts its presence since the bygone era. Rajan Mandke,45 year old,who works in the construction business reminisces of his primary school days which used to be on the floor above the food joint. “The primary school has been closed since ages but I keep coming back to the griha and enjoy chai and misal pav with friends,” he says. A regular customer since 40 years,he adds,”Even Lokmanya Tilak and Bal Gandharva used to come here in their early days.” S B Rathi,another customer,sips his tea as he says,”I used to come here when they used give the misal pav for 25 paise in 1959.” An attraction for all,the unique taste of the misal pav makes one go back again and again.
Dorabjee Cafe
A food joint which serves the city’s best Dhansak,Dorabjee and Sons Restaurant on Sharbat Wala Chowk,has been home to many foodies. Established by Darius Dorabjee’s great grandfather in 1878,it started off as an Iranian tea stall. Two years since its inception,the tea stall gave way to the present restaurant with tiled walls and the sloping board on top. The old quaint charm of the past is maintained as the chefs use charcoal fire instead of the modern stove. Seated at the wooden tables and the red plastic chairs,guests sip on Frams as they dig into the luscious biryanis on offer. One wonders if managing such a dated restaurant is a hassle,Dorabjee says,”I love my job and I find it very fulfilling. I have entered this industry with my own choice and cherish it immensely.”
The five joints with a history dating the British era are wonderful gastronomical houses which are the city’s food heritage sites.