But other fashion houses are more wary such as Chloe which says moving manufacturing to China is not on the cards at the moment even though the brand is very popular in Asia as the garment cuts suit petite Asian women. Asia accounts for 20-30 per cent of Chloe's sales.

"I'd say China now is not so much a quality issue as a customer perspective issue," said Sophia Wu, China general manager of Chloe.

Luxury brands would still need to invest heavily to ensure quality control, and prove that Chinese production can mean quality, not just cheap labour, Wu said.

Western consumers might be willing to pay thousands of dollars for a Chinese-made dress if they are convinced the brand's commitment to quality remains intact, she said.

But customers in China itself, a key growth market for Western fashion houses, would not, she said.

"They'd send it back if it was not made in Italy or France," said Wu. "Chinese women are buying our clothes because Chloe represents French culture: romance and European style."

Ho agrees and says he's not targeting China yet even though his body-hugging designs have caught the eye of clients such as Chinese actress Tang Wei, star of Ang Lee's Golden Globe-nominated film "Lust, Caution." as well as Hong Kong socialites.

His sights are set on establishing his name in Europe with a ready-to-wear bridal collection next year and runway shows in Paris and London.

His company has showrooms in New York, Hong Kong and Sydney and sells to high end department stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue in the United States as well as luxury boutiques around the world.