No place offers a greater getaway from life lived on the treadmill. Despite the Coca-Cola umbrellas outside restaurants advertising “Corean” cuisine, Orchha seems to have changed little since the halcyon days of the Bundela kings. No honking cars, no traffic jams—the silence is alive with forgotten sounds of birds leaving the roost at dawn, of crickets at dusk and of local boys plunging into the river. Every place and palace in Orchha is within walking distance and often, within sight.

Inside the historical monuments, the past moves closer. The main draw is the 16th century fort built by Rudra Pratap’s son, Bharticharan. It encloses a number of palaces—Jehangir Mahal, Raja Mahal and Rai Praveen Mahal. Made from stone, the fort has the flamboyance of Mughal architecture, with multiple arches, cupolas and domes that rise into the sky—a treat for palace buffs. The Jehangir Mahal, built to commemorate the emperor’s visit to Orchha in the 17th century, offers a breathtaking architectural treat—a series of trellised windows through which gusts of wind but no light enters the dark rooms. The poetry in stone is matched by the fading murals in Raja Mahal, the palace of the devout king Madhukar Shah. The palaces are full of dark, narrow staircases, hidden nooks and a multitude of turrets and chambers that create that “once upon a time” atmosphere storytellers love.

The Rai Praveen Mahal, however, is about a tale of love. It was the residence of the paramour of Raja Indramani (1672-76), a woman so beautiful and talented that Emperor Akbar sent for her in Delhi. According to local lore, she so impressed Akbar with her love for Indramani that he sent her back to Orchha. The Sheesh Mahal, which now houses an MP Tourism hotel and restaurant, dates to the 18th century and was a local king’s country resort. High on its façade are blue tiles that glint in the light. Once, the entire palace was covered in similar tiles.

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