Opinion Malvani Musings

I remember sitting on this very uncomfortable steel bench,with a shiny steel table and an empty steel thali in front of me. It felt like I was sitting at an operation table,and any movement on the table,was a loud “clang!”. The tubelights on the ceiling and their reflections didn’t help the eyes either. Then the food arrived,in bowls,placed on the circular steel,like colours on a palette — the soft pink of sol kadhi,a bright red malvani mutton curry,the brown red fish koliwada,the round moons of vade and the spot of neon red pickle and a huge spread of milky white rice in my “taat” (thali). Everything was suddenly on mute,no more clangs. No one spoke till the last of the sol kadhi in the tiny “vati” was slurped up. Malvani food can be potent,like a drug. It can stop time and space. It can take you to different levels of awareness and yes,it can be very addictive. If you are a foodie,you know what I am talking about. Malvani food,is coastal fare at its best,with lots of fish and non-vegetarian options.

The sol kadhi is an essential,it is an appetiser drink made from kokum and coconut milk,it helps cow down the fiery assault that is the malvani masala (part of most of the preparations) –dried red chilies (used abundantly),coriander seeds,peppercorns,ginger,garlic,cumin,cardamom etc. The Bombil fry or the Bombay Duck fry is another must have (flat fish fried with a crunchy golden brown batter,a sprinkle of lime and onions on the side). There is the Bangda fry (mackerel fry) or the Paplet fry (promfret fry) The Kombdi Vade is chicken curry (chicken with bones) a red curry with vade (wheat puris),the Paplet curry is another hit,the sweet meat of a promfet perfectly complements the tangy curry it swims in. But the highlight of the meal,if you are in an authentic Malwani restaurant,which are plenty in Mumbai (or more specifically in Dadar) you will get Tandalachi Bhakri,(rotis made from rice flour) which are perfect to mop up the spicy gravies that are served up in the Malwani thali. I miss my Malvani food fix.

Malvani fish curry recipe

Ingredients:

1.

Black Promfret: 500 gms

Onion chopped: 1 small cup

Curry leaves: 8

Kokum: 4-5,or use tamarind pulp

Green chillies -2

Water

Salt to taste

2.

Coconut grated: 1 small cup

Poppy seeds (khus): 4 tsp

Red Kashmiri Chillies: 9

Sesame seeds: 2 tsp

Carom seeds: 1/4 tsp

Fenugreek seeds – 1/2 tsp

Coriander seeds – 3 tsp

black peppercorns – 6

Cut the fish into long thin slices,rub salt and tumeric and keep aside. Take a small pan and dry roast ingredients listed under 2. Do not over heat,only lightly warm the seeds. Grind it all a coarse red powder. Take a deep vessel and add cooking oil,when hot,add onions,curry leaves,green chillies and stir till onions are transparent. Add ground masala and let it roast for a minute with the onions. Add water and stir till it is a thick consistency,for about 5 minutes,when it is boiling,turn down the flame and add the fish pieces. Let it simmer for another 5-6minutes. Be careful not to overcook the fish,since promfret has light meat,it will break and dissolve in the curry. Add salt,but remember the fish was already rubbed with it,so taste the curry before you add more. Add kokum and stir for a minute,as it comes to a boil. You can put in some slit ginger as well,for added flavour. Serve with hot rice.