Just before sunset,barricades went up,sirens rang out,people were pulled off streets,and traffic brought to a standstill. Suddenly,Agra became quiet,very quiet.
On the road leading to the Eastern Gate of the Taj Mahal,cars with red lights atop showed up. So did an entourage of buses and police vans. Somewhere and at some point during this pre-planned chaos,French President Nicolas Sarkozy and First Lady Carla Bruni-Sarkozy slipped out for a view of the Taj Mahal. Away from public gaze,for their first look at the monument of love.
From Bangalore where they first landed,the couple headed straight to Agra for a private weekend  the real business of diplomacy kicks in at New Delhi on Monday  and this is what Sarkozy said: In Agra,I will pay tribute to this extraordinary civilization embodied by the Taj Mahal,an unforgettable monument to eternity,and Fatehpur Sikri.
But for most part of the day today,there was talk that the Sarkozys would visit the Taj only on Sunday.
A notice had been passed to police stations from the Office of the Superintending Archaeologist. It lay on the table of the Ticket Sale Officer. Invoking Rule Number 5 enshrined in the edict of the Archaeological Survey of India,the Taj Mahal was to remain closed for the visiting VVIPs. The date was clearly mentioned: December 5,2010. The hour specific: 10-12. For those two hours,the Taj Mahal was to be out of bounds for all others.
Even the streets bustled,the gallis leading to the monument as chaotic as ever. Mohammed Saleem sat at his store,selling replicas of the Taj Mahal. He pondered whether he should open his store the next day. Sitting next to him,a shoe-shiner sounded adamant: VIP or no VIP,we will remain open.
Just a mere 500 metres away,another place was being readied for the Presidential visit. The Hotel Oberoi Amar Vilass presidential suite is both a toast to beauty and lavishness. It has a view of the Taj from every room,even the bathroom. This room costs Rs 240,000  reserved for the French first couple for two days.
Guests had been displaced. They were given notice to stick to reserved areas. The spa had been closed for the first couple: 6-10 pm was to be their time. Ladies-in-waiting ran across the lobby,lighting candles and spraying incense. The Taj loomed in the distant.


