Hashmatullah Khan,the 55-year-old Kashmiri Kani shawl promoter and entrepreneur whose nomination for Padma Shri kicked off a row after a section of the J-K bureaucracy questioned his award,has received support from none other than J&K Chief Minister Omar Abdullah.
Calling the controversy needless, Abdullah told The Indian Express: I have done my own finding out about Mr Khan. He has done a lot of work for the revival of the Kani shawl industry in Kashmir which was otherwise a dying craft. If the Government of India has recognized his contribution,nobody should have any problems with it.
These awards are not always conferred on the recommendations of the state government, said the Chief Minister. Sometimes the Centre sends us names for verification but that is not necessary. Various non-governmental organizations and even individuals can recommend people who have substantial contribution in a particular field, he said.
Khan was recommended by various organizations in Delhi.
The only problem was that not enough information was made available about him (Khan). We had to enquire about him after the announcement (of the award), Abdullah said. Unfortunately,he was projected as a shawl salesman,which is not the truth. His contribution in the revival of the Kani shawl is exceptional.
Khans family has been promoting the craft for the last three generations and is well-known in the Valley. We did not aspire or lobby for the award, Hashmatullah Khan said. The award was a pleasant surprise for me and my family. This award will,however,go a long way towards encouraging those people who associated with the revival of this craft.
A resident of Nishat he divides his time between New Delhi and Srinagar Khan is credited for reviving the near-extinct Kani weaving craft. In the early 90s,there were less than 10 craftsmen weaving Kani shawls when Khan took the initiative to revive it. The Kani shawl is a special type of Kashmiri shawl woven on loom with the help of bobbins called Kanis instead of the usual shuttles. Kani shawls which are woven pashminas are also called Jamawars.
Famous in the fashion industry across the world,especially Europe,Kani shawls are exclusively woven in Kashmir. According to tradition,in 1853,a Kani shawl ordered by the Empress of France took 30 men nine months to complete. And that to ensure that styles and colours were in accordance with European fashion of the time,French textile designers had set up shop in Srinagar.
I started from the grassroots and persuaded weavers in different parts of the Valley to start weaving Kani shawls. Today,there are over 5,000 weavers involved, said Khan. It takes almost a year for two weavers to make a small-size Kani shawl.
His nomination kicked off a row when some J-K government officials said they had not recommended his name and were unaware of his contribution. Hashmatullah Khans family is in the business of Kani shawls since 1928.
The Kashmir Chamber of Industries and Commerce today welcomed the award. A spokesman said its a tribute to a family that has given three generations for the promotion of craft.