Nouveau, Nice

Varun Bahl

Indian couture is undoubtedly clubbed and dubbed with bridal wear but not all designers want to make "wedding" the only hub of their work. Varun Bahl is certainly among those who hint at a course correction in perception. Bahl's show that opened the PCJ Delhi Couture Week on Wednesday made some welcome points. Though it was all Indian wear, the collection was thoughtfully balanced — it could appeal to the edgy luxury or wedding market. Lehengas, saris, achkans, shararas, mughal farshis (a wider sharara) and long jackets comprised the line called "India, Nouveau". Bahl introduced some exciting silhouettes: sheer net kurtas with bright red bustiers, fluid and flowy below the waist with embellished churidars. Some saris had a double pallu — one attached to the bustier and other to the sari. Black mutated to another palette with coral blue, olive and red. His fabrics were silk net, chiffon and velvet. The subtle and sophisticated collection eluded anything garish. It was couture in the finest sense.

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