SONAMARG, KASHMIR
White in winter, saturated with colour in spring and a splendid summer getaway, Sonamarg is Kashmir’s most understated destination. Majestic mountains, bubbling brooks and symmetrical pines make this a Himalayan epitome. My first view of Sonamarg, and also Kashmir, was from high above, riding down from the Zoji La, the mountain pass that divides Ladakh and Kashmir. Sonamarg lies in a valley at 9,000 feet, which means that in spring, or early summer, glaciers are never too far away. Pine trees, shaggy ponies and craggy shepherds all add to this hamlet’s rusticity. Before tourism in Kashmir declined in the early nineties, Sonamarg was the place for trekking. Today though it is still not advisable to trek in Sonamarg, a wander in the surrounding areas does give you a peep show of what it might have been like.
Want to go?
Sonamarg is 83 km east of Srinagar. It is advisable to get going from Srinagar early before the tourist hordes arrive. That way you’ll have Sonamarg all to yourself for some time at least. In summer, the adventurous thing to do would be to camp out in Sonamarg, but check if this is allowed and safe. Srinagar is well connected by air and road. For some adventure, take the road from Leh, but only between June and September.

BANDHAVGARH NATIONAL PARK, MADHYA PRADESH
When you have been close enough to count its whiskers and look into its honey-coloured eyes and make out the flecks of black, then you can truly say that you have had a tiger sighting. And the odds are that you have been to Bandhavgarh. Old William Blake’s cat is still burning bright in this small sanctuary in central Madhya Pradesh. Because of its small size and the density of tigers within, it is not too difficult to cross paths with Sher Khan. On the road, from a jeep or atop an elephant, sightings happen all the time and Bandhavgarh never disappoints. Besides the tiger, there are other animals to sight—bears, wild dogs, leopards and jackals to name a few—and birders can see the Paradise Fly Catcher or the Palasis Fishing Eagle gliding over tree tops. Other than that, there is the Bandhavgarh Fort where the old priest is a star thanks to reruns of The Temple Tiger, the documentary shot in Bandhavgarh for Nat Geo.
Want to go?
It’s about 1,200 km from Mumbai and takes 21 hours to drive down. The railheads are Katni from Mumbai, which is 90 km from Bandhavgarh or Umaria from Delhi, which is 30 km from Bandhavgarh. Airports are Nagpur, Bhopal or Jabalpur, but all mean a five hour plus road journey after the flight. The park is open from October to June and the best time to go is either when it’s very cold (January) or when it’s very hot (May or June). A good place to stay is Tiger Den (www.tigerdenbandhavgarh.com). Call Shailendra Tiwari on 9810140441.

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