According to the 1987 Chinese census, there were six million Uighurs in Xinjiang. The Uighurs give a higher, wilder figure. Anticipating a future demand for a referendum on determining the status of Xinjiang, China, through its resettlement policy, is relocating wholesale the Han Chinese from the over-populated eastern regions. If and when a referendum does takes place, the Han majority will vote overwhelmingly for China and the dragon’s stranglehold over Xinjiang will be complete and internationally accepted.

On the way to Korla, I observed that the Taklamakan desert was bristling with oil tankers and lorries transporting machinery, digging holes in the ground and reaping black gold. Beneath Taklamakan’s sea of sand is a vast sea of oil. Oil and politics go together. It is estimated that Taklamakan contains 94 billion barrels of oil — three times the proven reserves of USA. Silently watching the Chinese take away their oil, the Uighur leadership must be tossing and turning in their beds, scheming secret stampedes into the deserts with their mules and camels and taking possession of the oil fields. Sitting on a sea of gold, they will remain destitute. This grief makes their heart pump faster and their blood turbulent. These are the sort of grievances that drive secessionist demands.

After being stuffed with food by some kind Uighurs at the Night Bazar in Korla, I lifted myself on a donkey cart for a ride back to the hotel.

Pakistan ?” inquired the aging, black-robed driver.

“Hindoostan,” said I, setting the record straight.

... contd.