Vetro lies effete as the Oberoi section of the hotel is renovating after the damage caused. In the week since his return, Lattanzi has taken charge of Frangipani, the Trident-Oberoi’s all-day diner. “I’m making some changes,” says the chef who has formerly worked with the Michelin-awarded The Green Olive in London and the spectacular Hassler Hotel in Rome, of his favourite mushroom dishes. There is a seafood ravioli in porcini sauce, a pork belly and ricotta tortelli in truffle oil, and a wild mushroom risotto.

He’s also contributing to the Italian restaurant at the Oberoi’s upcoming hotel in Bandra-Kurla. But his heart lies in Vetro’s kitchen. “I will make a new menu for Vetro, come back in two months.”