“Almost 20 of 33 branded lipsticks tested contained detectable levels of lead, with levels ranging from 0.03 to 0.65 parts per million (ppm). None of these lipsticks listed lead as an ingredient,” says the report. Eleven of the tested lipsticks exceeded the FDA’s 0.1 ppm limit. Lead is usually found in small amounts as an ingredient in the pigment that provides the colour in some lipstick brands. “These pigments add to the richness and depth of the colour,” the report says, which is why, deep-red lipsticks contain greater amounts of the pigments. Brands such as Revlon ($7.49) had no detectable levels of lead, while the more expensive Dior Addict brand ($24.50) had higher levels than some other brands, said the report.

Lead exposure causes weakness in fingers, wrists, or ankles, and small increases in blood pressure, particularly in middle-aged and older people. In extreme cases, it can affect the nervous system. The more common ailments, said Dr Sanjiv Kandhari, consultant dermatologist with Batra Hospital, Delhi, are “contact dermatitis and leucoderma, in case of repetitive inflammation”. “Lead builds up in the body over time and lead-containing lipstick applied several times a day, every day, can add up to significant exposure levels. The two major components of lipsticks, which may contain lead, are the base wax and the dye,” he adds.

In India, contact dermatitis due to excessive use of lipsticks, even branded ones, is common and has been documented in Dr J.S. Pasricha’s book Contact Dermatitis in India.For example, Bharti Taneja, a 35-year-old bank employee, had developed itching and small blisters on her lips. It was a case of acute contact dermatitis, caused by certain pigments of the lipsticks she applied on a regular basis. “I suggested her to stop using lipstick immediately and with the help of certain ointments and medicines, we managed to control the spread of dermatitis within a few weeks,” says Dr Kandhari.

The medical fraternity is still divided on the extent of harm the lipsticks can do to your skin. While the FDA’s final verdict is awaited, dermatologists say a patch test is a must. Says Dr Ahmed Zaheer, HOD, Dermatology, Max Super Speciality Hospital, “The important thing about this report is that lead has been found in a product that women apply directly to their mouths. You must scan the list of ingredients before buying it. A patch test of the product is also a prerequisite.”

THE REPORT TESTED THESE BRANDS POSITIVE FOR LEAD:
L’Oreal Colour Riche “True Red” - 0.65 ppm
L’Oreal Colour Riche “Classic Wine” - 0.58 ppm
Cover Girl Incredifull Lipcolor “Maximum Red” - 0.56 ppm
Dior Addict “Positive Red” - 0.21 ppm