In travel literature, Mumbai is commonly referred to as the ‘Gateway of India’. The actual Gateway of India is a 26m-high arch-shaped monument of yellow basalt built in 1924 to commemorate the 1911 visit of the British monarch, King George V. It stands at the tip of Apollo Bunder, a common landmark in postcard pictures of Mumbai. To the left of the triumphal arch, even more imposing, is the sprawling grey stone edifice of the Taj Mahal Hotel. The former is a symbol of colonial power, the latter, of defiance.

The story goes that some time in the late 1800s, Mumbai’s visionary entrepreneur-industrialist, Jamsetji Nusserwanji Tata, on being refused entry to a local ‘Europeans only’ hotel (some versions identify it as Pyrke’s Apollo Hotel, others claim it was the Watson’s), swore to build a hotel that would not only be open to Indians but would also rival the grandest hotels in the world.

The location he picked was a stretch of reclaimed land at Apollo Bunder, facing the glittering blue sea. Everything about the hotel was on an unprecedented scale of lavishness; yet good sense and pragmatism too were evident in its planning. The foundations of the building, for instance, were dug in unusually deep at 40 feet. They supported a magnificent structure showcasing a mix of Moorish, Oriental and Florentine styles. The structure was topped by a large central dome, linked to smaller domes by long, high aisles which allowed the Arabian sea breeze to freely circulate and cool the building.

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