SERENITY,Made in China

Only a handful of these islands are open for tourists. Each of them is themed — Monkey Island,Snake Island,Island to Remind You of Your Childhood and Island to Enjoy the Moonlight. Lock Island is the first of our stops — it is a beautifully landscaped piece of rock,with stylised sculptures of giant locks around which visitors have tied hundreds of small heart-shaped locks. Presumably,to unlock the desires of their hearts.

Our second stop is Bird Island,which,as the name indicates,is full of caged feathered creatures — doves,pigeons,hawks,peacocks and turkeys that coo and squawk at peering visitors. One peacock sits disdainfully,away from the hordes of tourists,as its handler,with her arm around its gleaming lapis-blue neck,entices us to get our picture clicked by its side. The fauna is a great part of the attraction of these islands. Some of these are native,like the fishing kites and the golden koi fish,but most of them,including the peacocks and the fantail pigeons,have been brought to these isles merely to please the tourists. You can get a photograph of a hawk sitting on your suitably gloved hand for 50 yuan. Or,if you want to look like you went fishing,for 25 yuan you can pose with a fishing rod at the end of which is conveniently hooked a dead fish.
The islands,surprisingly clean for a place with frequent tourist footfalls,is redolent with the scent of green bamboo and fish roasting in snackshops. If you ignore the cries of some of the trapped birds,it also manages to be wonderfully serene.

The next day,we take off for what we’re told is an Oxygen Bar. We had no idea what to expect and it did seem like we could get swindled. However,when our taxi drops us at the base of a gently rising,heavily wooded forest,we realise why this place is called so. We take a hike through the forest — its floor is suitably smoothened with wooden planks and rickety bridges are built over tumbling brooks. In the wet and pleasantly chilly weather,it’s a brisk walk up to Cloud Viewing Pavilion at the top. En route are picnic tables and benches,half hidden by hanging branches,and positioned near little waterfalls — great if you want to stop for a quick snack. (Be Responsible Tourists,exhorts a signboard placed over a dustbin.)

Qian Dao Hu is a wonderful place to rejuvenate the tired body and mind. The main city itself is little more than a small town. Hardly anyone speaks any English and touts are mercifully missing from the local landscape. You can drift about the lakeside town,picking up miniature silk screens,and walk up and down the wet streets soaking in a kind of man-made serenity that can’t be bought yet in Shanghai. It is possibly a blessing then that Qian Dao Hu is still a relatively well-kept Chinese secret. (It certainly doesn’t get a mention in Lonely Planet.) But that could change. A five-star resort is already coming up on one side of the lake. It may spell the end of serenity for Qian Dao Hu,but maybe,just maybe,the waving bamboos and the rippling waters would work their magic on the noisiest of hordes and — quieten them.

FAST FACTS
Getting there
The closest airport and railway station are in the provincial capital Hangzhou. There are hourly bus services from Hangzhou to Qian Dao Hu. Once there,you may either hire a taxi for the whole day or take one of the local buses to ride around town. Take a cruise to visit the nearby islands.
Best time to visit
The lake looks its best in the rains,so visit anytime between November and May. Even if it doesn’t pour,the chill in the air will keep you from sweating on your long hiking trails.
Accommodation
The Qian Dao Building Hotel,located in the relatively more happening downtown area,is recommended.
Eating
Local cuisine is available at all restaurants and fish is a must-have. However,if you are the fussy type,you might have to eat at KFC. When you ask for tea,be prepared for the locally grown Dragon Well green tea. Chai,as we know it,comes in bottles.
Shopping
Pick up intricately embroidered,miniature silk screens in various colours. Or,buy bottles of pickled fish.