Slice of the Big Apple

Bibhu Mohapatra took first steps towards fashion by designing clothes for his sister. After completing his Master's degree in economics, he took a more definitive step towards it when he enrolled in the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York City. While working on his design degree, he honed his skills as an assistant designer for the American fashion label Halston. The 38-year-old, who launched his namesake label in 2009, now boasts of an enviable clientèle, including big names in Hollywood. The New York-based Indian designer talks to NAMRATA ZAKARIA about bringing his clothes home for the first time.

As a homegrown talent, how does it feel to be an internationally-acclaimed Indian?

I am very proud of my heritage. To me, being present here isn't just about selling here, but coming back with great pride and joy. I moved to the US 15 years ago, and I've had to pay my dues. Indian designers are doing such incredible quality work, I feel I had to be ready to sell alongside them.

Your new collection, Spring 2012, draws from photographer Helmut Newton. Tell us how.

The laser-cutting and degradé appliqué come from his Polaroids; my photographer used to work with him and said there used to be

Polaroids everywhere. There's a little bit of S&M — chains and bondage straps — that come from Newton, and some trouser suits. But my line at Le Mill, Mumbai, has a little bit of my previous collections too, it's like a teaser.

You're only a three-year-old label but you're already designing for Angelina Jolie, Cate Blanchett and Sienna Miller. How easy is that?

To be honest, I've known most of these actresses since my days at Halston and as design director of J Mendel. Some of them like my work. Some, I feel, can be our brand ambassadors, without sounding too exclusive. But yes, we are more strategic about it now.

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