Solitude soothes. And in Gokarna, a little town in coastal Karnataka, there’s enough of it to hush the fret of urban life. You find it in the arcs and alleys of this pilgrim town, in the surf’s whisper on the sand and in the silence strung out on lonely, breathtaking beaches.

Hip it is not, like sassy Goa. But over the years, this picturesque beach town has turned out to be the perfect getaway for foreigners and tourists willing to trade luxury for seclusion.

As we drive from the Dabolim airport at Goa to Gokarna, the idyllic scenes that flow past give us an inkling of what’s in store. Long stretches of red soil against green, towering jackfruit-laden trees and mud huts remind you of Malgudi-like languor.

One of the first things that strikes you about Gokarna is that it is a town of contrasts. It draws the traveller looking for some quiet or a pilgrim heading for its many temples as well as the backpacker on a shoestring budget.

The town’s main shrine is the Mahabaleshwar temple that has a lingam reputedly rescued by Ganesha. It also finds a mention in the Shrimad Bhagwat Purana. A few years ago, it only attracted pilgrims—till foreign tourists from Goa, the nearest tourist beach destination, began to stray into its untouched beaches.

All of Gokarna is really one main street buzzing with vendors, fisherwomen and local people selling vegetables and temple paraphernalia. Step away from the bazaar and you are within walking distance of four of the quietest beaches in this country.

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