DURING summers,they almost invade the city. Sometimes they hide under a thick blanket of straw or stack up behind strips of wood nailed together. But the thick,luscious aroma of mangoes is unmistakable even in a crowded bazaar. While most of us lust after the alphonso the most flavourful of all varieties chef Vicky Ratnani tries to keep aside such biases in his kitchen. One of the most popular dishes on the summer menu of Aurus is Black Cod with Mango Ceviche,which is prepared using four different varieties of mango. It adds a burst of flavour to the dish and also brings out the distinct taste of the mangoes, explains Ratnani. With mango in season,it has become an integral part of the menu at some of the citys restaurants. While the inclusion of mango in preparation of salads and desserts is obvious,the city is warming up to the idea of it being used in savoury and main course dishes as well. Fruits are used to add a hint of sweetness and tanginess to the dish,which brings another dimension to the overall flavour, explains chef Loong of Hakkasan,Mumbai,who uses dragon fruit,rambutan,kiwi and mango. Indians are known to have a weakness for sweets but the use of fruits in the main course of our local food is limited to certain cuisines,which includes South Indian. For the unaccustomed Indian palate,therefore,downplaying the sweetness of fruits makes the dishes more acceptable. The use of fruits in chef Ratish Dabres kitchen at The Pier,Colaba,is common. Among other dishes,he serves caramalised apples with goat cheese,prunes in mashed potatoes and grilled peaches to accompany lamb rack. Cooking and grilling reduces the sweetness of fruits, he explains. Using olive oil and herbs alongside fruit in a marinade helps. In savouries,fruits best complement meats and parma ham served with melon is a classic. Certain fruits such as papaya are especially used as meat tenderisers for seekh kebabs,but peaches,prunes and pineapples are great accompaniment to red meat. In fish,which is otherwise bland,the citrus varieties like orange and lemon enhance the flavour, explains Dabre. But tropical fruits such as mango,banana and pineapple are especially challenging to work with because the heae from the cooking does not cut down sweetness. Therefore,these varieties are often used to marinate meat,prepare chutneys and sauces that accompany the mains or as stuffing for meats,explains Ratnani. Go Mango The Pier: Mango Thyme Marinated Chicken Umame: Mango California Rolls,Mango,Cucumber and Cream Cheese with White Sesame Renaissance Mumbai: Mango Chilli Pomfret,Grilled Mango and Scallops Skewers,Mango and Turkey Sandwich Vinoteca by Sula: Shrimps cooked with mango Grand Hyatt Goa: Mango Portugese Egg Tart The Resort: Khatta Meetha Murg Hakkasan: Roasted Mango Duck F Lounge.Diner.Bar: Cracked Wheat Cous Cous and Raw Mango Puchkas
