Amba Salelkar

For all our children


Amba Salelkar

The Butterfly Effect

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Can a successful collection determine what the retail market really wants?

Coined by Edward Lorenz in 1961, the phrase Butterfly Effect refers to a "sensitive dependence on initial conditions" — where something as delicate as the flapping of a butterfly's wings can lead to large-scale alterations in events. More simply, it is about the idea that one butterfly can eventually have a far-reaching ripple effect on what follows. Designer Payal Jain's Autumn-Winter 2012 couture collection displayed at the Hyatt Regency in Delhi last week was called "Butterflies in My Heart". The clothes were elegant, flattering and pretty-wonderfully "feminine". Once this collection reaches the stores (this week itself as an announcement told us), Jain might want to stand by and see if there is indeed a butterfly effect provoked by her creations. In the bigger picture, Indian designers are dealing with dilemmas of how to design for 'modern' women — feminine but with feminist principles— evident even in dressing. Or, who love intricate detailing but are getting tired of too-pretty couture. That's why the retail destiny of fairy tale collections like Jain's could tell us what the Indian female fashion client really wants. In other words, it could tell us what influences fashion consumption in actual terms.

That said, it was the textures, fabrics and colour palette that made this collection worthy of applause more than the silhouettes and styles. Gossamer laces, silk taffetas, duchess satin, crepe and georgette, organza, velvety charmeuse in burgundy, caramel, aubergine, ivory and ebony captured all attention. So, if there were dresses and ballgowns, circular skirts and sarongs, a few saris too, what stood out was what they were made of.

A resplendent evening like this with an enviable guest list at Hyatt Regency's poolside lawns can hardly be fused just out of fashion. Last year, at the same venue (this is Jain's annual couture outing), the food was served alongside the show. The Indian Express had reported that "partying while a show was on" not only distracted from the beautiful clothes, but also brought down the value of fashion — a profession as well as an inspiration for many. This time, food and fashion were separately served. Both were good.

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