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This is an archive article published on August 17, 2011

The Lightness

Showing in Mumbai after three years,couturier JJ Valaya tells us why he wants to establish his fashion lineage.

The last time that JJ Valaya showed in Mumbai was in 2008. “Yes,it has been very long,” he muses. However,the Delhi-based designer,who will be showing tonight at the Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2011,doesn’t offer any excuses for why there was such a lamentable gap between his two shows at the LFW in Mumbai. Instead,he’s very forthright with his explanation. “I’m essentially a couturier,and all this time,I didn’t really feel that Mumbai had a credible platform for couture. I still wouldn’t say this is an ideal platform; I feel it has been achieved only by the FDCI at the couture week it organises in Delhi,” he says.

But with this season of the LFW focusing on winter and festive collections,there should be ample scope for Valaya to remind Mumbai why he’s one of the country’s most sought after couturier. Tasveer,the collection that he has brought to the city,has already received rave reviews at the Delhi Couture Week last month,where it was shown for the first time. For the show tonight,however,there will also be about 10 menswear outfits on display. “We wanted to ensure that Mumbai got a complete picture of the collection,” he says. The menswear will include sherwanis,bandhgalas,breeches and Nehru jackets.

Tasveer combines Valaya’s twin passions: photography and fashion. He’s been taking pictures for almost as long as he’s been designing and has photographed many of his own campaigns. His debut as a fine arts photographer in March,this year,was a high point in his career. “It’s almost like there are two personae in me: the photographer and the fashion designer. I intend to keep both alive,” he says. This commitment to his two passions led to the birth of Tasveer,which traces the evolution of photography from black and white to sepia to hand-stained,natural and digitised images. It’s a fascinating journey of colours and an amazing story,told through clothes.

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Valaya has used his couture creations to tell stories that intrigue him. That’s perhaps part of the reason for his fascination with India’s royal history. He manages to combine the mystique of Indian royals with a pared-down modern sensibility. The storyteller in him also found expression in his highly-acclaimed 2010 collection,through which he narrated the story of a courtesan,Alika,who longs for love. The collection saw the birth of his signature Alika Jacket.

Above all,however,Valaya makes it clear that the romantic in him may revel in the glories of the past,but he has an eye on the future as well. “The idea of our label is to create a fashion lineage; one that combines India’s regal heritage and traditions,and brings them together in a manner that is contemporary and thus transcends time. It’s a quality that we want people to recognise in our clothes,just like people identify the horses on a Polo Ralph Lauren shirt,” he says.

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