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This is an archive article published on August 29, 2011

The new Fash Frat

A Me-Too generation of boutique owners changes the way India responds to high street shopping.

Serena’s ‘look-at-me’ style and Blair’s affair with vintage dresses and bows in hit series Gossip Girl had Delhi-based Neti Jolly obsessed with fashion. It inspired this NIFT graduate to start her own brand,XOXO,a month ago. Short dresses,leggings,pleated trench coats and bow-belts are available online for now,while Jolly looks for a place to open a store in the Capital. “I want to be the Indian answer to Zara with high fashion,good quality and low prices,” she explains.

Similarly,28-year-old Ritu Sandhu,recently back from London,and an obsessive shopper,wanted to use her eye for fashion to start a business. With a limited budget,Sandhu opened Fashion Square London in Greater Kailash-I in Delhi,in collaboration with her sister-in law,who is based in London.

Jolly and Sandhu are two of the many young fashion entrepreneurs gradually changing the way the young Indians shop. They don’t show at fashion weeks,nor do they charge exorbitant prices. Their clothes don’t bear designer tags but are up-to-date with global trends. They have their own brands,launch parties and loyal clientele. With their own fashion clique,they form the third layer of

Indian fashion — falling in line after celebrated designers and international fashion labels.

The common thread for the brains behind these ventures is their love for fashion. Some,like Chandigarh-based Mantsha Sharma have previous fashion experience. Sharma has studied fashion design from the London School of Fashion and interned at Gucci and worked with Abercrombie & Fitch as a merchandiser. She teamed up with friend Simi Grover to open Chiclett Pack in Chandigarh. On the other hand,Roopam Oberoi,who started Kaaj Studio in Pune two years ago,had no fashion training. It was her interest in the world of cuts and styles,fabrics and falls that spurred her on. She converted a part of her residence into a studio,and now supplies outfits to a boutique in New Jersey under the label,R Oberoi.

This fashion wave couldn’t have come at a better time. “There is tremendous growth in retail in India — people are making money at a younger age. But how

often can one buy expensive designer labels or shop abroad?” asks 23-year-old Punweet Singh Manchanda,who launched his label,Adorabelle,in Gurgaon a month ago. Kamakshi Madan,who runs the popular Sooshm in Pune,adds,“Now is the right time to start one,as the partying culture has hit a high point and people want trendy clothes. They might shop from a big label occasionally,but for the rest of the time,they want something unique for their weekly parties.”

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Price,of course,is the biggest selling point for these boutiques. “Dresses,blouses and accessories priced between Rs. 700 and Rs. 3,000 are a big draw,” asserts Rohan Bhargava,32,who launched muah in Delhi and Mumbai. It’s a policy that all the boutiques have stuck to — Sooshm’s funky designs as well as Madan’s own label Kmax,are all priced between

Rs. 2000 and Rs. 8000. Chiclett Pack’s designer T-shirts are a steal at Rs 500,with dresses for under Rs 1,500.

The ventures are clearly paying off. Muah is expanding to Bangalore,while at boutiques such as Fashion Square London,Sooshm and NUN,college girls shop alongside corporate executives and socialites. Twenty-one-year-old Sanchi Gupta,a Delhi-based advertising executive,buys labels like Gucci,Chanel and Prada. However,she too finds herself shopping often at muah.

“The quality is good. Besides,bigger brands have limited variety while these boutiques experiment a lot,” she says. Aditi Tailang,24,a Delhi-based photographer,believes in these boutiques. “I’d rather spend Rs 2000 on a NUN or a muah dress,which is as good as FCUK. Also,I don’t like to repeat my party wear; and it makes sense to shop at these places than at Prada,” she says.

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Interestingly,despite popularity,these young entrepreneurs have little interest in fashion weeks. Bhargava says fashion weeks in India are a joke. “There are so many. Brands such as H&M and Zara don’t feel the need to take their collection to the ramp,why should I?” Sandhu,similarly,is content. “I do not have the resources to take my collection to a fashion week but I am reaching the masses with my collection of dresses,gowns,trousers and high-waisted skirts,” she says.

With inputs from Jagmeeta Thind Joy in Chandigarh and Nupur Chaudhuri in Pune

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