The Smoke That Thunders

We could hear its rumble from a distance. On the path leading up to the falls is a memorial to WWI soldiers from North Rhodesia,which was what Zambia was known as in those days. A little distance away was the life-size sculpture of Livingstone. Further down the path,we caught our first glimpse of the falls,situated on the Zambezi river,bordering Zambia and Zimbabwe. Stretching as far as the eye could see,curtains of furious white water tumbled down,divided by rocks jutting from the crest of the falls. A massive cloud of spray rose from the gorge,hiding the depths of the chasm.

We walked down the path that ran parallel to the falls and led to a narrow footbridge spanning the gorge,trying not to get too wet. I was wearing a raincoat and carrying an umbrella but the spray of water was too strong and some of it seeped into my clothes and shoes. Once on the bridge,the fine spray turned into a literal upside-down rain.

Walking beneath the protection of the trees,we noticed the sun playing on the drizzle had created a beautiful rainbow,a sharp circle leaping over the walkway and plunging into the gorge. Later,as the sun descended over the far side of the falls,the light turned the haze into a golden cloud.

If you are lucky to visit it on a full-moon night,you can even catch a lunar rainbow. When the sky is relatively clear and the water at its furious flow,huge rainbows appear through the mist at night. The thundering sound of millions of litres of water crashing down into the gorges below along with the lunar rainbow is a visual masterpiece.

From the viewing point called the Boiling Pot,I gazed right down the depths of the gorge where the water hit the rocky earth. The locals call it Chiposyo. It’s an important site for Mukuni people,who use water from the Boiling Pot in rituals to placate ancestral spirits.
The huge width of the falls spans from one end to the other,each with a different name. The falls in the eastern end is called the Eastern Cataract. It’s from here that most classic pictures are taken.

And just about midway towards the west is a zone called the Arm Chair Falls because it is shaped like an arm-chair. Slightly to the west of the entrance into the first gorge is the Horse Shoe Falls because it looks like one. The Livingstone Island is west of the Horse Shoe Falls. The Main Falls is the area between the Livingstone Island and the western limit. And part of the Main Falls is in Zambia. So you have three falls in one larger Victoria Falls.

The famous Victoria Falls Bridge,which was commissioned by Cecil Rhodes in 1900 as a railway crossing,stretches across the canyon. The bridge,suspended 120 metres above the rocks and the rapids,spans the second gorge a few hundred meters downstream,linking Zambia with Zimbabwe. A couple of daredevils dangled precariously down the steel frames; a bungee jumping destination for the adrenalin junkies.

Later,I crossed the bridge on foot for an excellent view of the falls but not before watching the swirl of water below me as it transformed from the sedate rippling waves of Zambezi River into a frothy thunder as it fell down the ravine.
That evening,as I cruised on the river watching the setting sun with the roar of the falls behind me,I knew the thunder would ring in my ears for a long time to come.

Fast Facts
Getting there:
Etihad has regular flights between India and Johannesburg via Abu Dhabi. From Johannesburg,Zambian Airways and South African Airways have regular flights to Livingstone.
Staying:
One of the best places to stay at Livingstone is the Royal Livingstone Hotel. A budget option is the Zambezi Sun. The hotels are on the bank of Zambezi river and the Victoria Falls is a short walk away.
Activities:
Go on a safari,play golf,try bungee jumping and white water rafting. The cruise on River Zambezi is an excellent experience.
The Zambia-Zimbabwe border is nearby and day visitors can walk across to the other country without having to get a visa. The crossing is open every day from 8am to 6pm.
Shopping:
Local handicrafts like masks and animals crafted out of wood are a great buy. Check out grass baskets and warthog tooth carvings. There is also African jewellery for those who love things exotic. The Craft Market in Mukuni village is a great place to visit. Be ready to bargain.