Three Cheers

Delhi-based designer Pia Pauro’s show was called ‘Shamal’,named after a north-westerly wind blowing over the deserts of the Middle East. Her clothes were inspired by explorer Ibn Batuta’s travels and drew heavily from Morocco,the Mamluk empire,the Arabian peninsula and the Byzantine empire. The show was tribal magic all the way as she sent down models wearing saris with tasseled edges,sundresses,tunics,swimsuits and flowing kaftans. Beach bags and handmade accessories — right down to ornate handbags and the tasselled gold sandal — enhanced the resort look. Beadwork,mirrorwork and coin embroidery also featured prominently in the collection. One wonders why Pauro invited actor Tara Sharma as the showstopper; her clothes alone could have done the talking.

Proving her metal

Edgy jewellery designer Suhani Pittie’s show named ‘Child of Eden’ only served to strengthen her position as one of India’s most appreciated jewellery designers. Seeking to revive the Bidri star print,the Chand Bali and the filigree work,(Pittie lives in Hyderabad and is inspired by the city’s heritage),the collection boasted of fine craftsmanship as seen through her cuffs,bangles,collar bands,neckpieces,belts,earrings and even hairbands,anklets,brooches and bags. From leaves and roses to a swan’s wing,a peacock and a hornbill’s beak,the designer’s love for nature spoke loudly. Metals continued to be Pittie’s primary raw material: she had fashioned these beautiful pieces out of plated copper,steel and cord. The black-and-white clothes too helped accentuate the beauty of the accessories on display.

Free Fall

Less is more has always been artist Payal Khandwala’s mantra and she reiterated this through her collection titled ‘Play’. While retaining her minimalistic approach to fashion,she showed a line that resonated with the works of abstractionists Mark Rothko and Barnett Newman. The colour palette oscillated from the deep-jewel tones to fresh whites,the latter reminding some of Wendell Rodricks’ free flowing creations. All silhouettes,created from silks,cottons and linens,were fluid and long — be it skirts,trousers,tunics or jackets. Drapes and wraps in contrasting colours made good ramp garments though the layering could have been toned down: it came across as too much for a summer-resort collection. On the other hand,the garment construction was refined and the angular zips for waistcoats and fluid-pleated pants definitely deserve a mention.

The pièce de résistance of the show was the high-collar jacket with contrast cuffs. All in all,a collection that balanced luxury with comfort.