Fifty-five year old Chande Lal takes a long puff from the cigarette. As the smoke swirls up, he says: “We will deliberate soon on whether to cast our votes and in whose favour. We may work out how the votes should be divided among different candidates and, if at all, the need to support any single party.”

Lal is a resident of Malana, the “oldest democracy” in the world which still relies on its village parliament and the edict of Jamdagni Rishi, their local deity, for every decision. However, signs of change are visible.

The matter of whether to vote or not is being taken seriously here and there is good reason for it. After remaining in isolation for centuries, Malana has allowed the Himachal Pradesh Government to provide them drinking water and set up a school. They have even let the telecom operators set up towers for ensuring cellular service in the village. “If we have taken favours from the Government, we need to reciprocate its gesture by participating in the democratic process to elect a representative,” said Thakra, another villager.

Malana has always evoked the curiosity of outsiders, including foreigners and researchers, for its peculiar social and administrative set-up. It also attracts attention for the kick of Malana cream, one of the best in marijuana grass. The villagers here marry within themselves and the village is divided in two parts. Legend says that the people of Malana are descendants of soldiers from Alexander’s army, who came here and settled down. The natives, however, consider themselves the descendants of Jamdagni Rishi, “who made this land his abode centuries ago”.

... contd.