Uphill Goldmine

The generally tough and occasionally bumpy ride — many stretches on the main road between Rampur and Peo have been constructed after cutting through rocks,the latter offering a terrace-like shelter — is compensated by the stunning views it offers. With river Sutlej as a constant companion throughout the route,one can get good views of the Nathpa Jhakri Power Project near Rampur and the Karcham Wangtoo hydroelectric power project near Karcham.

The tall,snow-covered Kinner-Kailash mountains that appear as one approaches Reckong Peo are a sight beyond words. It is here that one gets the first feel of the predominantly tribal nature of the district. Kinnauri men and women,in their trademark green Himachali caps,can be seen swarming the road that runs through Peo’s main market,an array of shops,from ration and cellphone kiosks to eateries,cyber cafes and salons. The first visible signs of Buddhist influence,from Lamas to prayer wheels,also start springing up here.

An uphill drive of around 5 km takes one from Peo to Kalpa,known for its apples. Kalpa is windy most times of the day and offers breathtaking views of the Kinner-Kailash mountain ranges. Himachal Tourism’s aesthetically designed Kinner Kailash hotel in this town is eye-catching for its use of wood. A wooden bridge links its two wings on either side of the road. From its rooms,the mountains seem to be in touching distance. Away from the hustle and bustle of Reckong Peo,Kalpa offers extreme quiet and serenity.

The locally brewed angoori (grape wine),particularly the one made in a village called Ribba (about 25 km from Peo) is a must-have for connoisseurs. Traditionally brewed in households,angoori is very popular among the locals. But not everyone may like its pungent taste and smell (like Goa’s cashew feni).

When in Kalpa or Peo,one can also visit Sangla Valley. Around 45 km from Reckong Peo,Sangla is located on the banks of Baspa river. On the way from Rampur to Peo,one needs to take a diversion near Karcham to reach Sangla. The valley has many temples,and offers almost painting-like views of snow-clad mountains and lush fields. Private entrepreneurs have set up Swiss-style tents that offer multi-cuisine meals,hammocks and bonfires,and come with attached bathrooms and running hot water.

Kalpa and Sangla Valley are not the only places you can reach from Reckong Peo. An extremely challenging 65-km drive through a potholed,almost kuchcha road takes one from Reckong Peo to Pooh,a small sub-division located just 40 km from India’s border with China. The place,again,offers extreme serenity and calm. Visiting Shipki-La Pass on the international border can be an exhilarating,once-in-a-lifetime experience. But one needs to secure a permit from the Kinnaur Deputy Commissioner’s office in Reckong Peo before going there. Tourist permits are not granted liberally and when they are,they come with a prohibition on photography in the area.

For those wishing to go into the Spiti Valley from Pooh,it is advisable to break the journey at Pooh,which despite not having many great hotels to stay,is still a good enough place to spend time at because of the quiet it offers. A few government guesthouses and some homestay options in Pooh can be explored for a night’s stay.

The famous Tabo Monastery in Spiti Valley,which attracts travellers and Buddhist pilgrims from across the globe,is around 100 km from Pooh. On this route,Khab,where the Spiti river,flowing down from the Spiti Valley side,merges with the Sutlej river entering India from the Tibet side,is a significant spot. The confluence of both rivers creates a magical feel at Khab.

On the Pooh-Tabo route,Nako is a must-halt. Home to a small lake and just 876 people,it has the beautiful 1,000-year-old Nako Monastery. One of the stories about the monastery is that the murals of its sanctum sanctorum were embellished with pure gold. Locals say that most of the gold has been scratched away and stolen by visitors over the past few years. One can see traces of gold on the walls even now. According to a local legend,people living in and around Nako believed that eating the gold bits taken off the monastery walls would cure them of diseases.

It takes another 65 km from Nako to reach the famous Tabo Monastery in Spiti Valley. Founded in 996 AD,it is regarded as the oldest continuously functioning Buddhist monastery in the country. Located in the middle of a valley and surrounded by majestic mountains,Tabo offers an almost surreal experience.

Ideally,one could start the return journey via the same route from Tabo. But those who still want more can proceed to the famous and picturesque Kye Monastery and Kibber village. From Tabo,one can first travel around 50 km to Kaza and then another 10-odd km to reach the Kye monastery which overlooks Kaza from an altitude of around 13,500 feet. Kye monastery’s striking look comes from the irregular way its rooms have been constructed and held together. Home to scores of lamas who come here to get their religious training,Kye also boasts of majestic wall murals and rare Buddhist manuscripts.

An uphill 10-km drive from Kye takes one to Kibber which,at 14,000-odd feet,is one of the highest villages in the state. The use of stone in the construction of houses in Kibber has lent them such a unique look,it is hard not to notice them. The houses look very different from the mud or brick homes that dot the Spiti Valley.

From Kaza,the distance to Manali is 200-odd km. But the inhospitable terrain of the Kunzum Pass leading right up to the Rohtang Pass makes this journey highly challenging,and sometimes avoidable. Only daredevils should venture on this route.