Valley warming up to pashmina

The Indian Council of Agriculture Research (ICAR) has now sanctioned a Rs 9.5-crore project to Sher-e-Kashmir University of Agriculture Sciences and Technology (SKUAST) to boost the production of pashmina wool.

Called ‘A value chain on enhanced productivity and profitability of pashmina fiber yield,the project is a national innovation project (NIP).

“The aim of the project is to push the production beyond one lakh kilograms in the coming years. A roadmap to involve more scientists,villagers who rear pashmina goats and those associated with shawl industry has been prepared,” said Prof Anwar Alam,former vice-chancellor,SKUAST.

“Through the new central project,scientists will explore the reasons behind a high degree of inbreeding,poor husbandry practices,high kid motility and inadequate shelters for the goats that result in poor fibre yield,” added Alam.

Of the total 15,000 metric tonnes pashmina wool produced in the world,China’s share is 70 per cent followed by Mongolia at 20 per cent.

“Our yield is very low compared to other pashmina producing countries,” said Prof Alam.

“We hardly shear 100 to 250 grams of wool from a single goat,while in other countries farmers produce around 700-900 grams of wool from a single goat.”

Pashmina is derived from Changthangi and Chegu goat breeds. While Changthangi is found in Ladakh,around 6,000 goats of the Chegu breed are found in Himachal Pradesh and Uttarakhand.

Prof Alam said after a global ban on Shahtoosh,wool derived from the hair of an endangered Tibetan antelope,people have started relying on the Pashmina wool.

“As of now,around 35,000 to 45,000 people in J&K are associated with its production.”

At the same time,people in Ladakh are showing less inclination towards breeding Changthangi goats and have forayed into the more lucrative option of the tourism sector.

Dr Sarfaraz Wani,chief scientist,Livestock Products Technology Division,SKUAST,said they have already started work to raise production in Ladakh region.

“We are aiming to increase the production of pashmina wool by improving nutrition by controlling motility rates,modern harvesting techniques and de-hairing techniques,” he said.

Abdul Hamid Punjabi,a prominent pashmina shawl manufacturer and exporter,said it was a drawback that the Valley’s pashmina shawl industry is totally dependent on the wool derived from the pashmina goats of Ladakh.

“As of now,pashmina goats are found only in Nyoma block in Ladakh. Under the central project,the goats will be reared at the non-traditional areas of Nobra,Drass,Panikher,Bod Kharboo areas. These areas,too,have a perfect climate where pashmina goats can survive and flourish,” he said.

Punjabi also said that while the wool comes from Ladakh,it is spun into world-class shawls in Srinagar . “The SKUAST,under the NIP project,has provided spinning wheels to 100 women in the Valley. This has certainly impacted the yield,” said Punjabi.

“Though our fibre production has increased,it is still negligible. A decade ago,it was around 28 to 30 tonnes. Now it is slowly going up and is pegged around 40 – 42 tonnes.”