Sitting in a secluded corner of Bandra Reclamation, the roaring chaos that is Mumbai seems very far indeed. All that’s required to make one’s evening memorable is warm conversation and good food. At Masalacraft, the latest addition to the growing list of restaurants that offer al fresco dining, the elements seem to align perfectly; unfortunately, as you go further down the menu, the good impression made at first sight diminishes rather noticeably.

Frequenters of Candies next door will remember that just over a year ago, this used to be China Bistro. The latter’s food didn’t win it any favours. Masalacraft has changed more than just the management and the name—the food is delectable here, at least to begin with. The starters and drinks set the bar fairly high. Both our Black Russian and Appletini were value for money at Rs 175 and Rs 165 each. The Karara Palak Chaat, priced at Rs 80, lived up to its name, being both crisp and flavourful, and the Basil Garlic Paneer Tikka, Rs 120, was wonderfully fresh. But the winner on the list was the Lemon Chicken—succulent meat, delicately flavoured with lemon.

Unfortunately, that’s the last outstanding dish we had at the restaurant. The Nalli Nihari (Rs 180) was chewy and the Murgh Lahori (Rs 145) suspiciously similar to Kadhai Chicken—nothing inventive here. The Laccha Paratha (Rs 25) was, thankfully, quite soft and flaky, but the Cheese Chilly Naan (Rs 30), instead of being stuffed with cheese, was simply garnished with it. As for the chicken biryani, although reasonably priced at Rs 150, we’ve had better— the rice was just too sticky. The portions were generous, and had we’d enjoyed the food, it would’ve been an advantage. We were full to order dessert, but we weren’t desperate to have a sweet—the overwhelmingly sweet Dum Aloo Lahori (Rs 120) put us off desserts for a while.

... contd.