As Lakmes fashion week closes in Mumbai,Im not the only one wondering what the purpose of the entire exercise is. The shows are two long and boring hours apart,the clothes,mostly,are pseudo boho,and the buzz and business an event of any glamour requires to survive,doesnt exist.
Perhaps its disloyal of me to critique a Mumbai event since Ive lived and worked here my whole life,but the city divide is such an old chestnut now its both injudicious and embarrassing to discuss it. The cause of Indian fashion is much larger than that and if you dont give this a national perspective,you dont count.
The fashion weeks original and self-proclaimed pioneering sponsor has scored a few hits alright,but many,many misses. For starters,Lakme has a great partner in IMG,the events company brings sophisticated planning into the five-day week. Logistics are in place,celebrities are brought in and managed and organisational details are well taken care of. IMG brought Naomi Campbell to India ,ties up with big-league cricketers to walk the runway and ensures the limelight lingers on.
Lakmes fashion week has also turned out some gems,like Nachiket Barve and Rimzim Dadu. It brought Savio Jon back to fashion-weeking. And it ensures Sabyasachis ego is well-oiled and not eaten up by the ginormic-sized vanities of the Delhi lot and he keeps showing us some lovely and well presented work. Lecoanet Hemant and Malini Ramani presented delightful shows this year.
But as Ive often stated,even face on,Lakme Fashion Week is just a notch above a college fest. Its a great launch-pad for budding designers,but its far too easy to get in and get a show. It may showcase the Indi-kitsch young designers often turn out and chuckle at the lehengas the northerners adore,but can newbies afford to make and then sell such expensive garbs? I think not.
Moreover,the biggest buyers here are Aza and Kimaya,two multi-designers stores known best for bridal shopping. Tina Tahiliani,who owns and runs Ensemble,arguably the most reputed designer store in the country,makes far too few appearances here.
The newly positioned Resort season has many detractors too. Resort is not a seasonal collection; in the summer its a summer line,in the winter its called resort. Several designers claim it gives them no time to produce the collections,smaller designers are just happy for the sound byte. Nonetheless,someone forgot to tell Rocky S and Manish Malhotra,the former showcased bridal and Malhotra couldnt make do without sneaking in some lehengas either.
That the cosmetics company is in it for the free editorial is well recognised; its far cheaper to sponsor an event than to pay for full-page adverts in six newspapers over five days. But the medias interest here is waning,my colleagues are nodding off. You can ask people to stretch their imaginations only this far. Each year,they bring on a gimmick to generate excitement; whether its Vikram Chatwals Mai Mumbai show (for which Ms Campbell showed up) or the Christopher Kane for Tigi show. The Lakme promotions are ceaseless on the premises; journos are virtually forced into attending the Lakme Studio launches. This year,even the front-row-hungry socialites are giving it a skip.
This is Lakmes former business head Anil Chopra and his trend-loving wife Sabinas party,designer clothes and careers are just by the way.
( namratanow@gmail.com )