The Church at Ganjam

A moment, or an eon, passes. Eventually we rise and make our way down to the quaint little primary school set up by the Abbe. It comprises two tiny rooms fronted by a verandah. We stare at the ancient blackboard embedded in the verandah wall, and marvel at the intense faith that had brought Abbe Dubois all the way from France to this corner of India two centuries ago. The Abbe was no ‘soul harvester’; to him, Christianity meant peace, compassion, service to the poor and the ailing. He was quite unconcerned that his religion attracted few converts. Instead, he devoted all his energy to helping the local community.

He discarded the fine robes that marked him as a foreign missionary, and wore a dhoti and turban like the village men did. He carried a plain wooden staff, just as Indian pilgrims did by tradition. He learned the local dialects, and through his teachings opened children’s eyes to the wonders of the world. He worked alongside the local villagers to improve their agricultural practices, and founded a number of cooperatives. In 1806 he completed an invaluable account of Hindu customs, institutions and ceremonies prevalent at the time.

The Abbe also pioneered vaccinations against diseases in the State of Mysore. In a campaign inaugurated by Maharajah Krishnaraja Wodeyar, he treated 25,432 people in 18 months, including the maharajah’s bride-to-be. Abbe Dubois’ dedication, humility, compassion and selflessness endeared him to the people, irrespective of their faiths; they called him “Doddaswamy Avaru”, the Great Lord.

On the way out we pause before the ancient doors of the church. The weathered wood is warm to the touch, suffused with the warmth and love that Abbe Dubois showed for God and His creatures, and which still endures in the little Church of Ganjam.